Into the Tea Aroma Mountain

Tea and Yoga Practice

2011-10-24T12:59:00.000-07:00

I like this simple expression of tea and yoga:

... Tea helps build the connection to ourselves and to those around us . Tea helps achieving relaxation, bringing harmony and connecting with each-other as a family. In addition to the positive mental connections to drinking Tea, the beneficial properties of Tea builds on those that you receive from practicing yoga.

(read whole article here)

My new Ashtanga Mysore class experience

2011-10-10T08:18:00.000-07:00

This month, I just began my small-class training in the Ashtanga Mysore style with a local certificated instructor.

The teacher stopped me at the point of Marici C, because I could not bind with joint hands on my right knee (I can do it on the left side though)!
So, I'm now stucking with this asana and trying to accomplish it on my right side.
In the Ashtanga tradition, asana sequence is strictly followed. A beginner is introduced one asana at a time, and until you accomplish that asana, you are not allowed to proceed to the next. However, all finishing asanas are encouraged, which usually include the Sarvanga (Shoulder stand) series, Shirsha (Head stand) series and the Padma series plus Shavasana. Modifications are given (only) when you have injuries preventing you to do the full pose.
This is exactly the case in the class I'm attending. The teacher encourages not only finishing poses but also backbend practice.
The small sized class is entense for me for now.
The teacher makes sure all the time that the students are following the sequence -- which means no skips, no changing order, and NO modifications!
If you can't do an asana, you learn how to do it.
Into the 2nd week (I'm attending a 3 times/week schedule), my right knee pain got severe to a point that I can't do any lotus. I can't even do Janu-shirsha on my right side.
I think it was the standing Ardah-baddha-padma asana and a deep full lotus (was the deepest I've never attempted) at the end of one session literally killed my right knee -- I had previous similar experience, but usually recover by itself in a few days so I think this time it's really serious.
So, for the rest of the week day classes, I was given "modification" as said, but it is not the thing you will do in a so called "modified primary" class in popular yoga center. Here, I was still asked to do THE pose in the same manner, but using props and stopping at the point of pain. As for Ardha-baddha-padma, I was still crossing my right leg but put the right foot to the outside of the left thigh. Using a large rubber band, get my right hand bind with the righ foot, and bend upper body after ensuring right hip opening (right knee point straight downwards).
The difference between "stretching" and "tearing" -- the latter should be avoide at all expense.

Black lentil sprouting

2011-08-25T07:58:00.000-07:00

My first lentil pea sprouting experiment is successful! Today's recipe is sesame paste, Black Beluga Lentil sprout and molasses, sprinkled with some Shiso fumi furikake.

It takes only four days to sprout:

Translating Tea

2011-08-05T11:02:00.000-07:00

Building up a glossary -- Our special focus is not only on translating names of tea or tea products, but also on a deeper appreciation of tea such as equivalent term for taste, feeling and cultral-spiritual dimension of tea activities.

A glossary for translation projects and communication by Sherab

Reference sites

Tea bugs?

2011-05-20T07:52:00.000-07:00

I just saw pictures of interesting tea bugs on a post by a friend on Sinan Blog, who is a tea producer from Mt. Fenghuang, Guangdong 廣東鳳凰山. According to him, this bug lives on tea tree, and is called by local people "cha cai zhu" 茶財主, or literally "moneybags of tea"!

Summary of Vitamins for Vegan

2011-02-20T07:22:00.000-08:00

Essential B Vitamins and their common names

B12	Cobalamin, cyanocobalamin	attention required
B1	Thiamin	usually plentiful
B2	Riboflavin	planning needed
--	Niacin	usually plentiful
B5	Pantothnic acid	usually plentiful
B6	Pyridoxine	usually plentiful
--	Folate	usually plentiful
--	Biotin	usually plentiful

Vitamin B12

Function: Helps build genetic material, DNA, and is particularly important for cells that reproduce rapidly, such as red blood cells that are produced in bone marrow.
Effects of deficiency:with insufficient dietary B12 or inadequate absorption, a consequence is abnormally shaped, large blood cells. this condition is called macrocytic (large cell) anemia.
Source and recommended intakes

Vegan and fatty acids

2011-01-22T09:28:00.000-08:00

-- Notes from reading Becoming Vegan: The Complete Guide to Adopting a Healthy Plant-Based Diet / Brenda Davis and Vesanto Melina

Fatty Acids
a basic component of fats and oils, are divided into the following categories

Saturated Fat (SFA)
Monounsaturated Fatty Acids (MFA)
Polyunsaturated Fatty Acids (PUFA)***
Trans Fatty Acids

Saturated Fat (SFA) molecules completely packed or "saturated" with hydrogen. Generally hard at room temperature. Often considered "bad fats" because they have consistently been linked to an increased risk of heart disease and some forms of cancer.
Monounsaturated Fatty Acids (MFA) fatty acids having one spot in the carbon chain where hydrogen is missing. Fats high in these MFA are generally liquid at room temperature and semi-solid when refrigerated. These are generally considered "good fats"; they are beneficial to health and can protect against chronic diseases, especially heart disease. These are neutral or slightly beneficial in their effects on total cholesterol levels and do not decrease HDL ("good") cholesterol; may even slightly increase it. Some evidence show MFA reduce blood presure and enhance blood flow... Main dietary sources are olives, olive oil, canola oil, avacados, most nuts (except for walnuts and butternuts), high-oleic sunflower oil, and high-oleic safflower oil.
Polyunsaturated Fat (PUFA) fat molecules having more than one spot in the carbon chain where hydrogen is missing. Fats high in PUFA are liquid at room temperature and when refrigerated. Reviews concerning their health effects are inconsistent.... Main dietary sources are vegetable oils, seeds, nuts, grains, legumes, and other plant foods.

***Essential Fatty Acids (EFA)
The two polyunsaturated fatty acids required in the diet.

Linoleic Acid a parent in the omega-6 fatty acids family
Alpha-linolenic Acid a parent in the omega-3 fatty acids family

Long-Chain Polyunsaturated Fatty Acids
larger polyunsaturated fatty acid molecules.

in omega-6 family: Linoleic Acid --converted-- Arachidonic Acid (AA)
in omega-3 familty: Alpha-linolenic Acid --converted-- Eicosapentaenoic Acid (EPA) and Docosahexaenoic Acid (DHA)

Steps to improve yoga back-bend post

2011-01-05T17:27:00.000-08:00

Works on opening the shoulders and top of legs

YogaBody offers these two following practices:

Hands-on-wall Downward Dog

Lie on your belly on the floor; crown of head touching a wall
Chest liftup and put hands on the wall like doing Downward Dog
Relax and hang there for a minute, then 2 to 5 minutes

Supta Vajrasana

Master Vajrasana till comfortable bum on floor between feet
Proceed to lean back, elbows first, lower your back and head to the floor
Grab opposite elbows over your head; Relax totally for 2-5 minutes

Practice on lengthening the lower spine and opening the groins
-- from Vancouveryoga.com

To maximize the benefit and minimize potential discomfort in backbends, the pelvis and lumbar spine must be positioned in a way that lengthens the lower spine and opens the groins. To prevent compression in the lumbar spine, the pivot point in the backbend must be the bottom or apex of the sacrum, not the base. Many yogis mistakenly pivot from the base which compresses the vulnerable joint between the the sacrum and L5 and can cause discomfort by pinching muscles and ligaments in the lumbar area.
To experiment with these concepts, first warm up the spine with Catcow:

on all fours, arch the back and tip the tail up to the ceiling on each inhalation; on each exhalation, round the back and tuck the tail and head under. Repeat slowly and with awareness for 2 or 3 minutes.

Bow Pose is a good one in which to practice lengthening the lumbar spine and groins in backbends:

Lie on your stomach with arms overhead. Reach back with your right hand to grasp the right foot.
Inhale and press your pubic bone gently into the floor. This encourages you to center the pivot point of the arch in the backbend at the apex of the sacrum. As you inhale, lift your upper body and right thigh off the floor. Keep the back of the neck long. Exhale and return to the floor. Continue for several breaths then repeat on the left side.
To contrast the results, do several movements without first pressing the pubic bone into the floor. Notice the increased compression in the lower back.
If you are able, do the full pose by lifting both thighs and the upper body off the floor as you inhale and anchor the pubic bone into the floor. If you feel any compression in the lowback, practice one side at a time until you learn to lengthen the spine and pivot from the sacral apex.
Do several more Catcows as a counterpose.

Take this concept into more complex poses such as Camel and Wheel. The more you can lengthen the lumbar spine and maintain space between the vertebrae by lowering the pivot point of the backbend to the sacral apex, the less the compression and discomfort. Subtle energies can then flow more freely and you will receive maximum benefit from the energizing and cleansing backbends

Guess what's in the plate (2)

2010-12-23T21:21:00.000-08:00

Delivering a tea seminar to OWO

2010-11-20T11:25:00.000-08:00

I was invited to deliver a tea seminar to the Ohio Women Organization. The topic I gave was:

On the Aesthetics of Tea Arrangement 茶席的美學

(details forthcoming...)

Pawpaw Sandwich

2010-09-17T11:11:00.000-07:00

September is the month of a feast on autumn wildness tastes! Persimmons, Eastern Black Walnuts, and yes, the Pawpaws are some of the mother nature's gifts I'm gratefully accepting. Well, certainly you have to "search" for them, as they will not show up in the market. The discipline is, however: Don't take too many. You won't have time to process (and digest) them all at once if you come to be too greedy.

This morning, I made pawpaw sandwich, another way to enjoy this locally grown but exotic in taste fruit. I call it Vegan Butter!

This fall, I found a six-fruits-in-one - They are multiple fruits produced from a single flower! This really looks beautiful and interesting. It is said that "pawpaw fruits often occur as clusters of up to nine individual fruits." (source)

It's hard to describe the taste of pawpaws... To me, it's mango but no acid; banana but more fragrant; persimmon but not that sweet; pear but with custarda... A serious reader might want to consult the web sources and below are a few pages to begin with. However, if you are really serious about pawpaw, you should consider attend the Ohio Annual Pawpaw Festival!

......

Morning glory

2010-09-10T11:59:00.001-07:00

I love morning glories! and I'm particularly in favor of those purple or blue ones. They just add a wonderful refreshment in the morning, really. These are a light blue variety I found at roadside, Beijing, when I was traveling to there last month. The color is just so touching!

One thing about morning glories is that they are so modest in nature, and they thrive everywhere there's decent light and moisture. The trumpets of beauty sing the glory of the sun.

This dark purple one is in my patio. I took this picture a day after coming back from Beijing -- it's still in the season of morning glories!

A small black Jian-yao tea cup with fish design

2010-09-08T10:39:00.000-07:00

宋建窯黑釉魚文小盞

Siddhasana problems

2010-06-02T11:28:00.000-07:00

The importance of Siddhasana (Siddhāsana) does not need to be repeated here. One benefit in practising this asana is openning the hip joins, which is a prerequisite for Padmasana and other lotus postures (such as Ardha Baddha Padmottanasan). Some say that this seating posture is easier than Padmasana for in Siddhasana, you don't have to put the feet higher on top of the opposite thighs as required in Padmasana. In fact, it only looks easy but not so especially for beginner like me. Specifically, I find the following difficult points in siddhasana practice.

What is the right position of the inner or lower foot? Should it be placed right below the perineum, the groin of the opposite leg, or touching the pubic bone of the same leg side?
What exactly is achieved in terms of hip joint opening in this posture? In other words, what range of motion is improved?
The relation of the (male) genitals to the two feet, and related concerns?

Reference

Lecture on Chinese Tea Culture

2010-04-23T18:27:00.000-07:00

I gave a lecture (with demonstration) on Chinese Tea Culture which is in the series of "China in a Global Context" hosted by the Institute for Chinese Studies, the Ohio State University.

Why all those twists?

2010-04-12T11:20:00.000-07:00

Without muscles, tendons and ligaments, the skeleton can literally move into any shapes, freely; but it cannot hold in one place! The bones will simply collapse and scatter. In other words, sheer flexibility or freedom means the lose of stability and structure.

Difficulties in those stretching, contracting, and twisting movements in yoga asanas may give us an illusion that our joins are not "opened" enough. But in fact, that might have less to do with the opening of joins but more with the muscles operational capability to create more range of movement (flexibility). Do the following test. Bend forward your upper body with knees bended, and you will probably find that it is not very difficult to close the gap between your chest and your tights. Now, try do the same thing but with your legs straight... the difficulty level dramatically increases. You immediately feel the resisting sensations in the hamstrings. A similar test. Sit on a garden bench with your upper legs wide open (more than 90 degrees) but your lower legs and feet resting on the ground (knees bend in 90 degree angles), now try to lean forward with your lumbar area straightened and the entire spine lengthened, and see if you can make your body parallel with the floor or even bring your head lower than knee level. I can guarantee that many people can do this without much grimace on their faces. Now, try this by sitting on the floor with your legs spread asides and knees straightened... the number of people who can easily bring their heads down towards the ground will greatly decrease.

There are five types of energy, called pranas (or vayus), that are propelling the body-mind system. One of them which is closely associated with body movements (led by stretching and contracting actions of muscles) is the 5th prana called vyana (tib. khyab byed, chi. 遍行). On the gross, yet inherent level of the body, it is the arrangement of certain numbers of muscle groups that holds up the skeleton system, and the interactions or counteractions of muscles directed by the never system move the body. This energy of movement is vyana prana.

During our entire life span, the vyana prana will not be able to withdraw and is constantly moving from the center of the body to the periphery; but at the time of death, this energy will withdraw into the central channel by the force of kamra, sometimes with great pain experienced in the dying body, and the aftermath is the demobilization of all the limbs -- the body becomes a corpse.

One of the functions of yoga practice is to "disturb," so to speak, the vyana energy, effectively and intellectually, when we are still alive. This is largely done by stretching, contracting and twisting movement in yoga asanas, through which one gains a balance of pliancy and stabilization of the body. When an asana is achieved, the breath should be steady. The stabilization of breath leads to a stillness of the mind. One of the main goals of pranayama practice is to withdraw voluntarily the prana energies into the central channel. And that's why asana practice comes first and the pranayaman practice follows it.

All the stretching, contracting and twisting are but to prepare our body-mind into a pliant and stable SEAT (asana) or vehicle (yana) on and by which we can ,,,.

The word "pliancy" in the meditation terminology (skt. tib. chi.) means

And it is very interesting to note that, in Sanskrit and Tibetan, the idea of diligence or continuous effort is sometime expressed in a term xxx literally means "to twist"!

The Way of Tea to be presented on 2010 Ohio Chinese Festival

2010-02-03T12:05:00.000-08:00

I have accepted, with honor, an invitation to perform "The Way of Tea" (茶道 or "Tea Ceremony") at the 2010 Ohio Chinese Festival. Not only I'm going to demonstrate the traditional way of tea, but also I intend to introduce some easy but proper ways of enjoying tea on a daily base (in other words, occassions such as when you are working at your office, or on the way to go).

Session I. Tea in the Way of Tradition (Modified Kongfu Cha style)
Here you will see how teas are prepared and shared with friends in a more traditional manner. Such an event is called a Tea Gathering (茶會/茶席). Aesthetics is revealed through the communication with tea, tea wares, and with people. Calm down and awaken your mind in the dialog with tea! We are demonstrating something called "modified kongfu cha" style. As the name applies, we will use tools adopted in the 功夫茶 kongfu cha traditions, but with add-ons and changes.

Session II. Tea the Easy Way
Tea is not only for leisure. Tea is first a healthy beverage. But the point is how to drink tea in a healthy way! We will bring some modern tea utensils designed for convenient tea making. These utensils are widely available at the market. Using these tools, we can enjoy a cup of tea any where any time, and receive the health benefits of tea with ease and with grace! Improper manners of tea making and some heath concerns in tea drinking will also be discussed.

A Green in the Name of White

2009-12-25T18:28:00.000-08:00

It's been a while I have not reviewed any teas seriously... but this doesn't mean that I'm out of teas. In fact, I keep getting new teas, many of which are gifts from friends, like this one I'm trying today.

This a tea named Fuwei Bai Cha (富伟白茶) or Fuwei White Tea. The word "bai" means white. But, a look on the dry leaves revealed to me the truth that it is actually a type of green tea. And to be specific, it is a type of green tea in the category of chao qing (炒青) or "roasted green" so to speak. You may get confused for why a green tea is named white tea? To decode the "white" part in the name, we have to take a look on what it really means by "white" in the terminology of current industry as well as its historical meaning.

The terminology white used in "white tea" is ambiguous. It refers to two different entities: (1) The color of the tea leaf which is "white" or pale green, or is ivory colored (when the leaf is young) -- this is probably the original meaning; and (2) The "simplicity" in the process of the tea leaves, which means merely letting the leaves wither and then dry and pack them up.

In today's tea industry in China, among the five types of tea named by colors [1], it is in the second sense mentioned above that the White Tea is definied. An example of White Tea in this system is Bai Mu Dan (白牡丹) or White Peony.

In the ancient time (especially in Tang and Song Dynasties), White Tea is definied differently from that of the modern tea industry. It is more straight forward referring to the color of the leaves, and has nothing to do with the processing method. A tree that grow "white" colored leaves is considered a specialty. The taste of the tea made out of the white tea tree is said to be supreme [2]. In the ancient time, the procedures in tea manufactury is way more complicated than today's.

Back to today's tea. I did a small online research and found out that this tea is in one of the series of new products developed in the last couple of years, noticeably all from the west region of Lake Tai (太湖). Tea growers there claimed that they have re-discovered the ancient "White Tea", because they found a type of tea tree growing in mountains there which sprouts unique ivory colored leaves, similar to that described in ancient tea classics. And therefore, they call it "White Tea." Obviously, this naming has a great marketing purpose!

However, the tea is processed in the method of green tea. Therefore, by definition of modern tea industry, this type of tea is still a green tea. One of the most polular products in this series which has made a big marketing success is Anji White Tea (安吉白茶).

A search for the manufacturing location of this particular product I'm reviewing today results in a neiborhood of the Anji White!

In conculsion, we have been dealing with three types of "white tea" so far

White Tea in the ancient sense: a special type of tea tree that grows white leaves. In Song Dynasty, teas are manufactured into tea cakes, and grinding the cake into tea powder is required before it can be consumed.

White Tea in modern Chinese tea industry: tea leaves are picked and let withered simply by itself (without shaking or twisting as that in the process of Yellow or Oolong teas) and dried (under the sun or by heating); light fermantation occurs during the process of withering.

A type of green tea called "white" in name only! Picked from a special type of tea tree that grows white leaves, processed in the manner of green tea, which means zero fermantation!

Now comes the actual review part....

The tea is well processed, the package looks nice, too. The dry leaves are flat in shape -- could be a major difference from Anji White which are not flat. The color is also more greenish in comparison of Anji's dull green. I made four infusions, the first one is done in the manner of throwing leave onto hot water (上投), which means you first pour boiling hot water into the gaiwan, and then throw the leave onto the water and let them slowly infused into the water. This is the way often employed for green teas of tender leaves. I used 4g of dry leaves to suit my 120cc gaiwan.

The taste is pretty decent as for a good green tea. It presented a little astringency which you will not experience with Anji White. Usually, astringency indicates the tea possesses less amino acid but more poly phenols. To me this is a good news, because more poly phenols means more EGCGs or the antioxidant element.

The spent leaves demonstrate the tea's specialty for which it is named: the pale greenish with a tone of ivory!

Notes

[1] The five types of tea are: Green Tea, White Tea, Yellow Tea, Oolong Tea (or Greenish Black), Black Tea.
[2] The supreme quality of White Tea is described in a Song Dynasty Tea Classic 《大觀茶論》.

Bibliography of Extended Readings

2009-12-23T07:52:00.000-08:00

On 易經 Yi-jing (I-ching), The Classic of Change

易學今昔/余敦康广西师范大学，2005
-- 分析中國儒道思想天人合一, 自然主義與人文主義的中道

Animitta sabda gandha: A visit to Zizaiyaji

2009-12-12T08:45:00.000-08:00

Literature review on tea culture and tradition

2009-12-02T09:57:00.000-08:00

明代几种茶书成书年代再补 / 安徽农业大学中华茶文化研究所丁以寿

Materials for research on the tea mthods reflected on 2 scroll paintings

2009-10-19T10:00:00.000-07:00

傳為初唐閻立本的《蕭翼賺蘭亭圖》今存世的有兩卷, 一藏於遼寧博物館, 另一藏於台灣故宮博物院. 據學者考證[資料?]此二均宋代的摹本, 其中遼寧博物館所藏的是北宋摹本, 台灣故宮博物院所藏是南宋摹本.

遼寧博物館所藏

台灣故宮博物院所藏

Literature review

李豔婷遼博本《蕭翼賺蘭亭圖》作者考辨(天津美术学院学报 2007年第3期)

浩更《蕭翼賺蘭亭圖》重現唐代煮茶風情(文化交流 2008年第5期；又转载于拙风文化网) -- 論點可質疑處頗多

Pine needle motif on Japanese tea wares

2009-05-24T08:43:00.000-07:00

The first time this motif caught my eyes was when I bought a tetsubin with kanji 松風(wind through pine trees) on one side and some "strange" design on the other. At that time, I wasn't sure that the needle like leaves are pine needles and the fruit like thing is a pine cone. Later on I learned that this motif is called 松葉絵 matsu-e(drawing of pine needles). Sometimes, pine cones, called 松ぼっくり(松毬), are also accompanied.

Two things we can learn from this motif. First, as the pine leaves are depicted not on branch but as separate pairs of needles, this motif indicates the season to be late autumn, when the pines shed some leaves on the ground. The falling leaves, just as the falling of sakura flower in Spring, give a sense of the transient beauty. Second, as the needles are paired, or in fascicles of two, we can tell that the dominant pines trees in Japan are probably those similar to Red Pines or Scots Pines in Europe. Or, at least these are the pines that caught the artists' eyes...

The following are a few more examples of the pine needles motif on Japanese tea wares. Note the first one, a tea caddy, has both needles and pine cone, similar to the tetsubin. The second one, a red tea caddy, has bamboo leaves and plum flowers -- thus it makes another popular motif Sho-chiku-bai (松竹梅 pine-bamboo-plum), or Saikan Sanyuu (歳寒三友), literally, "the Three Friends of Winter."

This is a 松葉絵銘々皿 (matsuba-e-meimeizara; "meimeizara" are small plates for individual helpings of food) and it has a more realistic depiction of the pine needles --

CCTV program features "drinkable antique" - old fine Puerh tea

2009-03-15T07:21:00.000-07:00

CCTV now has a "Myths of sky-price" series, and one of them is the "Drinkable Antique (能喝的古董) - myths in old fine Puerh teas":

-- I'm trying to embed the video here, but it only ended up with a link! -- anyone can help me?? (Before I figure it out, you have to copy & paste this link to the address bar to watch the show. Sorry!)

标题:[走近科学]天价之谜（二）能喝的古董(2009.02.24)
URL：http://space.tv.cctv.com/video/VIDE1235490488700888

Bibliography and Reference

2009-02-09T12:30:00.000-08:00

Source - scriptures

茶道古典全集 / 淡交社

中國歷代茶書匯編校注本 / (香港)鄭培凱、(浙江農大)朱自振

Works - individual studies (texts in Chinese)

宋代茶法硏究資料 Sōdai chahō kenkyū shiryō / 佐伯富編 Saeki Tomi hen

宋代茶文化 / 沈冬梅學海出版社, 1999 (Minguo 88)

茶与宋代社会生活 / 沈冬梅 [in 中国社会科学博士论文文库] 中国社会科学出版社, 2007

中国贡茶 / 巩志浙江摄影出版社, 2003

明代茶文化藝術 / 廖建智 Taibei, 秀威資訊科技股份有限公司, 2007 [9789866909399]

明代茶酒文化之研究 / 廖建智 Taibei, 萬卷樓圖書, 2005 [9789577395283]

明代茶业经济硏究 / 刘淼汕头大学出版社, 1997 [9787810362078]

诗化的品茗艺术: 从唐代茶诗看唐代茶艺 / 李新玲农业出版社, 2008 [9787109128835]

茶与现代养生 / 范晓清主编人民军医出版社, 2007 [9787509109335]

(texts in English/bilingual)

Tea, wine and poetry : Qing dynasty literati and their drinking vessels = 詩酒茶情 : 清代製壼名家遺珍 / 宋緖康 [et. al] Hong Kong : University Museum and Art Gallery, The University of Hong Kong, 2006 [9789628038381]

Journals

福建茶叶[季刊](OCLC51674101)

农业考古/江西省社科院(OCLC62606234)

宋明雅士文化Intellect's life of Song and Ming Dynasties

《遵生八笺》

《考槃余事》

關於香

《香乘》

Playing the Song Dynasty Partaking Tea Method

2009-01-25T13:03:00.000-08:00

Step 1

Step 2

Step 3

Freshman Seminar Course Proposed

2009-01-06T22:34:00.000-08:00

A proposal for teaching a Freshman Seminar course in 2009 Autumn Quarter titled

"Introduction to Chinese Tea Culture"

has been submitted. If accepted, this blog will be developed to integrate class content, readings, online reference, and discussion topics.

高麗青瓷茶碗 Korai Seiji Chawan

2008-12-23T15:27:00.000-08:00

This is a tea bowl of Kourai Seiji (高麗青磁 Korean Celadon) made in around 130 years ago. It has a small but rather tall foot, which makes it a cute looking. The tall foot, called koudai (高台 tall-stand), is a feature of tea bowl intended to provide a comfortable hold of the bowl when hot tea is made inside. The crackle glaze (ao hibi 皸) is attractive, and almost invisible raised decorative lines can be found around the lower body, on both inside and out.

My first bowl of whisked tea in a new raku-yaki

2008-11-20T23:09:00.000-08:00

A kuro raku-yaki (黑樂燒) tea bowl is usually used for koicha (濃茶) or "thick tea" in Japanese tea ceremony. However, I'm experimenting the Sung Dynasty style of whisked tea with a deep appreciation of the wabi (侘) teawares developed in Japan. With that in mind, the first tea execution with Ai-oi was in usucha (薄茶) style, or as I would call it: dian-cha (點茶)!

It was nighttime, and rainy and chilly outside. I held the bowl this way so I could see both the pale green froth inside and the red glaze flowing on the out-wall of the bowl...

then I drank the tea to the bottom! The special design at the inside bottom allows remaining liquid to be collected there, thus it projects another fascinating scene!

One thing that I was missing is a ceramic ewer for pouring hot water...

Ai-oi - A Raku Tea Bowl by Ko-raku

2008-11-07T11:51:00.000-08:00

I just acquired a Rakuyaki (楽焼) tea bowl. The artist is Koraku (光樂).

It caught my eyes the first second I saw it, and I believed I was looking at a great master piece of a Raku ware, specifically, a Kuro Rakuyaki or 黒楽焼. The seller revealed that this bowl is made 40 years ago. A famous monk named Gensei Miyanishi, the superintendent priest of a Rinzai (臨済) temple, signed the wooden container box and gave the name Ai oi (相生) to this bowl. The meaning of the word Ai oi is rather ambiguous - as it is always for an Eastern mind! One way to render it could be "(the two) living in harmony." However, the Japanese seller gives "wooden root is divided into two truncks"! and therefore, suggests that this teaware is best to be used in Spring season.

Myōan Eisai (明菴栄西), the founder of the Rinzai School of Zen in Japan during 12th century wrote the famous 喫茶養生記 Kissa Yojoki, Treatise on Tea Drinking for Health. That was the oldest tea specialty book in Japan.

A similiar item by the same artist can be found being bid currently on Yahoo Japan (for 15,000円).

(茶道具　黒楽茶碗　光樂造　銘　庵の友　箱書　表　桐共箱)

5 Oolong Teas (2): Dahongpao

2008-07-20T13:54:00.000-07:00

As Bill mentioned in his comment on my last post, there was a confusion whether the container marked by him as "1980's Dahongpao" is indeed a Dahongpao, or not?! "When I had placed the tea in the container, I was abrubtly taken away to attend to another matter. As a consquence, I forgot what I had given you!" Uh uh...

But, is this a problem? Not for me. My strategy is to test this tea with a benchmark, a real Dahongpao that I bought at Malian-dao, the biggest Tea shopping center in Beijing, last summer!

COMPARING THE DRY LEAVES

(1980's dry leaves)

(2007's dry leaves)

Smelling
Yes, it is very important to smell the dry leaves -- this will reveal a lot of information: How the tea is processed and stored; where it came from; and together with the shape of the leaves it often tells what the tea IS! My Dahongpao releases a rather strong tosted and pleasant aroma; Bill's is much lighter, which made me think that it must have gone through a long period of dry storage; but my nose still tells me that this is not a Dancong or a Oolong from any other region. It is of Wuyi. The leaves of these two tea also bear quite a lot of similiarities.

STEEPING & SLURPING

(1980's infusions 1 to 5)

(2007's infusions 1 to 5)

The 1980'S
There is a saying "天下茶喝膩了還有武夷巖茶" or "if one is sated with teas he can still resort to Wuyi Rock Tea"! The beginning of the 1980's infusion was pleasant, though I could sense a slight oxidization taste in the liquor. It is a kind of stopping-ness on the tongue, especially on the upper part and two sides. Also, the color of the liquor went out gradually but noticeable. Upto the 5th infusion, the color became much lighter than the first three infusions. [Comments] A good and aged Wuyi Rock Tea. It won't last many infusions, before the drinker is getting satiated with his tea!

The 2007's
I wasn't as much paying attention to the tea as in the test of the 1980's. At the 3rd round, I was distracted by something else and when I returned, the liquor already became quite dark! And as a consequence, I guess, the 2007's got exhausted quickly after that as well... The tea tasted no sign of oxidization, just its spent leaves could tell below. [Comments] A good beginner's Wuyi Rock Tea.

COMPARING THE SPENT LEAVES

(The spent leaves of the 1980's from Bill)

(The spent leaves of my 2007 Dahong Pao)

Many leaves are still greenish in the 2007's; in contrast with the 1980's complety aged look ---

5 Oolong teas (1): Feng-huang Dan-cong

2008-07-16T14:09:00.000-07:00

A Chinese version is posted on 覺香山居.

Bill, the author of Ancient Tea Horse Road, sent me five Oolong tea samples. They are

1980's [Wuyi Cliff] Da-hong-pao

1983 Anxi [? not appeared to be Tie-guan-yin]

1986 Feng-huang Dan-cong

1994 Feng-huang Dan-cong

1980's Taiwan Paochoung

There are two things noticeble here. First, these five teas have included representatives of all 4 oolong tea producing regions, namely, North Min, South Min, Guangdong, and Taiwan; secondarily, they are all aged oolong teas dated back to 15 or 20 years. Having realized these, I was very impressed by Bill, as an American tea drinker, for the depth of his tea knowledge and experiences.

regions	North Min	South Min	Guangdong	Taiwan
representatives	Wuyi Da-hong-pao	Anxi Tie-guan-yin	Feng-huang Dan-cong	Paochoung

Also based on these understanding, I decided to start the reviewing process by first grouping them into pairs. The first round would be, of course, for the two aged Feng-huang Dan-cong! This was done in last weekend.

[Method] Gai-wan

White porcelain gai-wan, thin-walled, 100cc

Glass pitcher (to decant the infusion in whole)

White porcelain cups paired w/ wen-xiang cup

Stainless kattle and electric single burner

Amount of dry leaves used: 3.6g

Water: when boiling, move away from burner and stand alone for a few seconds

Pouring the water in a slow circling motion along the inside rim of the gai-wan; at the last second, raising the kettle a bit higher and pouring straight to one side of the wall so that the leaves can be rolled in water (for better infusion)

Awaking the tea leaves at the beginning by pouring boiling water into gai-wan, then immediately empty it.

I. 1994 FENG-HUANG DAN-CONG

Dry leaves: Impressive, entire and long twist (3-4cm); dark purple-brown with white frost-like appearance. Some still has a tint of green.

1st infusion: Decant after 1.5 minutes. Red-brown with tint of orange.

2nd infusion: Color darkened. Taste slightly astringent. The astringency was felt especially at the back of tongue and its touch with the back teeth.

3rd - 4th infusions: The tea behaved quite ordinary... but

In the 5th infusion it started to taste better. There can be two reasons: (1) I waited longer for this infusion; (2) the tea might require a longer period to awake, and it was just about the time at the 5th infusion. This pleasant moment, however, went on to only one more infusion, and after that, the leaves seemed exhausted...

[Comments] This Dancong has a subtle floral aroma, though I could not identify which category it belongs to. It is said that there are at least 8 types of Dancong according to different fragrances, but obviously I'm too less experienced to distinguish! --- I need more Dan-cong. Did you all hear me? ;-)

(1994 Dancong, 1st infusion)

(3rd infusion)

(spent leaves)

II. 1986 FENG-HUANG DAN-CONG

Dry leaves: Long and thinner twist (3 cm), a little broken. Dark purple-chocolate color with some brown leaves.

Infusions: When the hot water just poured in, the leaves immediately released a kind of dark orange to red color. The taste of the first infusion reiminded me with heavy-fried Tie guanyin or Dong Ding. So, for a moment, I doubted that a mistake was made on the label. However, the coming infusions proved the tea not a member of either Anxi (Southern Min) or Taiwan groups.

This well aged tea went on for quite a few infusions -- I kept pouring and decanting and forgot how many infusions I actually went through. The color of liquor lasted as well as the taste of the tea. These were mostly done with rather quick decantations, though. I did extend the infusion time once, and interestingly, the tea tasted a little bitter at that time, I remembered. In general, the taste is much more smooth or subdued than that of the 1994's.

The review on the 1994s was done indoor at my tea table. For the 1986's, I moved out to the patio to enjoy the evening breeze...

(1986 Dancong, 2nd infusion)

(at about the 6th infusion)

Having poured down so many cups of aged oolongs, I felt a little dizzy and seriously hungery! So, I went to look for some snacks and found out this chocolate cookies the best match with a cup of aged oolong tea (considering both color and taste)!

(spent leaves of 1986 Dancong)

[Final comparison]
Though the color and liquor of the 1986's surpassed the 1994's, I personally prefer the 1994 one. I just liked the light astringency in the latter, but felt the 1986's a bit too smooth. Both no doubt are good aged Dan-cong. -- I feel lucky because (don't know why) Bill doubled the amount of the 1994 Feng-huang Dan-cong in his samples, so there is still quite a bit of it left! I will certainly bottom them up later ;-)

洛杉磯-安那翰短訪(3): 吃與逛

2008-07-09T17:10:00.000-07:00

公曆6月28日這一天是個吉祥的日子, 因為是農曆五月廿五日, 月下半弦, 所以晚上我與L君一同在她家的佛堂裡修習了《上師供養法》(藏文: lama mchod pa'i cho ga; 梵文: gurupujasya kalpa) -- 把這件正事放在下面這些吃與逛的閑事之前 -- 這樣, 我就稍微心安理得了!

Now, action! ----【吃】
6月29日 -- 在家吃L君燒的菜

(除了最近側的的兩盤是接風那晚飯店帶回的以外, 都是L的廚藝)

(注: L吃素, 所以這盤是給俺特炒的, 也是由俺獨吞地...)

此前一日(6月28), L君大姐帶俺去了帕薩迪那(Pasadena)老城. 本來要請我去吃那裡一家有名的意大利餐館叫IL FORNAIO, 但因我說喜歡日本料理, 於是去了「壽司六」(Sushi Roku)--這家餐館據說是美國電影明星尼古拉凱其與日本人合作開的. 我們吃了

昆布沙拉(Seaweed Salad)

炸豆腐排(Tofu Steak)

柚汁煎蘑(Sorted Mushroom in Ponzu Juice)

味噌鱈魚(Chilian Sea Bass in miso sauce)

味噌茄子(Eggplant Dengaku: 將茄子在Miso和Mirin調的汁裡泡一天)

壽司: 海膽(Uni)、甜海老(Ame Ebi)、素食壽司卷

[...... 沒有照片 ......]

6月30日, 小東京的千羽鶴:
窗外:

眼前:

......

Now, action! --- 【逛】
比華利山莊(Beverly Hills)名店街(Rodeo Drive):

!!! 下面的圖片8-16歲青少年建議由父母或其他授權成年人陪同觀看! ~~~ (其他年齡段者看後若出現任何不適、反感、興奮等等狀況, 本人概不負責!)

街頭優美的女性半身LT雕塑:

名牌店面的櫥窗設計:

右邊這個很詭異 -- 它是在地面上的, 透過矇矓的彩色玻璃, 你能隱約看到一個模特兒 -- 放大看一下吧:
看到裡面的時裝模特兒了沒?

一輛明黃色法拉利(Ferrari)赫現街頭, 成為一道亮景. 吸引了一些過路人的目光:

這段俺看上去覺得並不很起眼的飯店區竟然就是當年李察‧吉爾和朱莉亞‧羅伯拍《風月俏佳人》(《麻雀變鳳凰》, Pretty Woman)的地方!

這一部分名之為"逛"是完全符合實際情況地! 因為俺在此地一個銅子兒也沒花 -- 當然了, 就是把俺口袋裡所有銅子兒都掏出來, 也買不起這裡任何名牌店裡的東東 -- 所以俺也就沒掏! 這就叫大飽眼福

其他去的地方和見聞由於時間與篇幅的關係, 不能在此一一描述了...

--- 感謝L君大姐的全面招待和安排使俺的洛杉磯-安那翰之行豐富多彩!

(系列完)

洛杉磯-安那翰短訪(2): 參觀西來寺

2008-07-04T07:54:00.000-07:00

A Short Visit to Anaheim - Los Angeles (2): Visiting Hsi Lai Temple

洛杉磯可玩的地方很多, 且不說在安那翰會議中心(Anaheim Convention Center)的對面就是迪斯尼樂園(迪士尼樂園, Disneyland), 還有海濱公園、好萊塢、環球影業(Universal Studios).... 就是那些走不完看不盡吃不掉的美街美景美食也夠你消受的了. 但是這些地方我都沒去. 一方面時間太緊, 另一方面我也不大愛湊熱鬧的(類似的地方看過了, 也就那麼回事兒). 不過當我和L姐商量後決定抽出一個上午去參觀西來寺時, 我倒是很歡喜雀躍.

西來寺為佛光山創建者星雲大師在美國加州洛杉磯東南的哈森達崗興建, 1988年落成, 佔地90餘畝(15英畝). 寺宇宏偉, 道場莊嚴. 我們去的那天是週一, 恰逢寺院職員休息日, 雖然寺院本身照常開放, 但本想參觀該寺圖書館和會見那裡的圖書館員的想法無法實現了. 在大雄寶殿和值日的師傅問訊、禮佛後, 我們就去看旁邊的寶藏殿, 然後繞寺觀賞殿宇及周邊景致. 聽到齋堂的敲板, 但卻沒有在寺裡參加過堂, 因為下午還有其他活動...

大雄寶殿正面及廣場

美利堅合眾國國旗在大殿一側迎風招展

從琉璃殿頂遠眺洛杉磯東部的山城

南眺五聖殿

寶藏殿的水晶佛像

五方佛雕版

洛杉磯-安那翰短訪(1): 比賽茶的殊勝表現

2008-07-02T06:03:00.000-07:00

A Short Visit to Los Angeles - Anaheim (1): Tea Appreciation at Friend's Home

今年的全美圖書館協會年會在南加州安那翰(Anaheim)舉辦, 借此機會, 山人於六月底拜訪了多年法友(現在加上茶友的)L君大姐(事實上是借住在L姐家). 承蒙L的全面照顧, 山人得以在短短的四天時間和忙碌的會議日程空隙做了很多值得記憶的事 -- 按照時間/博文先後順序:

與L君大姐一起品茶

吃L君親自燒的菜, 觀賞L君的花園

游帕薩迪那老城, 吃了有名的壽司六

參訪西來寺

逛小東京並在千羽鶴進午餐

逛比華利山莊名店街

逛小台北

等等... 這幾日將陸續寫成日志並與大家共享. 今天就先從在家中品茶開始吧!

我這次雖然為L帶去一些普洱茶, 但她卻更熱衷於讓我試品她最近新買到的本年度幾款特級台灣茗茶, 包括大禹嶺春茶、梨山福壽春茶和沙里仙比賽茶. 我們分別於28和29日晚試品了這些茶. 其中特別值得一提的就是沙里仙比賽茶的不一般的表現.

記述之前, 有必要透露一下的是, 前此五月時L君曾托台灣茶葉直銷店的好友購到小批量大禹嶺、梨山及沙里仙金萱, 寄到後發現是冬茶(春茶五月採摘, 六月底才會有貨). 當時曾寄贈山人一些分享. 山人試品後(見相關博文)覺得這幾款茶已經很不錯, 況且如大禹一類優質高山茶因產地海拔高於2500公尺以上, 每年只有春冬兩次採摘, 因此所謂冬茶並不像台地茶園那樣被視為遜色, 有時反會有更佳表現. 但L君因為堅持要春茶, 竟將餘下未開封茶如數退還 -- 這令那位好友在向不做零售的茶場老板退貨時頗感尷尬 -- 於是這次再寄來的茶, 不僅保證為春茶, 而且質量有加, 自不待言... 而這款比賽茶呢, 據L說是她硬從好友那裡"索要"來的, 因為只有這一罐了!

書歸正傳. 我選用了L君藏壺中的一把鼎足平蓋鳳流朱泥壺(不記得何款)試泡此款比賽茶. 約150毫升壺中投茶7克. 開水略置數秒即沿壺沿低沖而入. 茶湯黃綠色, 微苦澀, 對舌的刺激並不十分明顯, 但其最大特點乃是強有力的茶氣氣感! 嚥下後頓覺茶氣在體中有上下運行的動勢, 片刻能感茶氣上行至眉間. 這在一般台灣高山烏龍茶類中是不多見的. 第四泡後茶湯轉甘甜.

洛杉磯到底是物流中心的大城市, L在超市買到微核荔枝, 非常新鮮, 內皮粉紅色, 果肉如潤澤的白玉, 其味甘甜多汁 -- 用以佐茶, 實乃一大享受!

七泡後葉底情況:

葉與梗均較冬茶為柔嫩, 但很飽滿, 可見頂芽.

A Pair of Old Japanese Teacups

2008-06-25T19:50:00.000-07:00

Lawrence and his fiancee visited me two weeks ago, that was shortly before his moving out of Ohio. We first had a dinner together in a local Chinese restaurant called Panda Inn, which is one of my favorite. We then had several teas at my place, including that 17 year aged Dong ding oolong. I proudly showed out the two zisha teapots I newly bought. One is a Shuiping pot (水平壺, an imitation of the so called 文革壺 or Wen ge style); and the other the cute Wendan pot (文旦) presented in last post. Lawrence held them in hands and studies them for a while. His comments were possitive. We sat down and talked about the material, style, and about the saler of these pots.

The most exciting thing for a visit of teapal is of course his or her presents! Sometimes their mere precence is already the best reward, but this time I was truelly honored with two old Japanese teacups Lawrence brought me as gift!

The inside of the cups has a thin layer of clear and light greenish glaze with a fine crack appearance. The color is enhanced when tea poured into it. The outside is rough, slightly ribbed, but feels gentle and comfortable. At the base, you find a small seal (sort of blurred and unreadable to me).

Drinking tea out of these cups is an enjoyment. I quickly fall in love with them, and these days I have been sipping up a lot of Taiwanese High Mountain Oolongs with these two cups! Thanks, Lawrence.

A Cutie to Admire

2008-06-23T14:31:00.000-07:00

Okay, I accept, I can't resist beautiful things. It's too difficult for me to not being absorbed to these objects. So, yes, basically I was just attracted by its beauty when I saw it.

The pot takes the shape of one of the prototypes of traditional kongfu teapots, 文旦 Wendan. 文旦柚 Wendan you is the Chinese name for Pomelo, a citrus fruit native to Southeast Asia and widely cultivated in south China and Taiwan. A Wendan pot with a slightly narrowed top and a large bellyed base, is said, according to one view, to resemble this gracefully shaped fruit. The curved outline moving from the lid to the base particularly pleases my eyes.

(A wendan harvest festival in Bali, Taipei, Taiwan)

The characteristic decoration on the pot, imitating some Qing syle partial-glazed Yixing Zishawares, depics lotus growing out of mud under water without being contaminated -- a perfect analogy to the virtue of detachment from worldly affairs. Now-a-days, it is quite rare to find a glazed zisha teapot, especially a partial-glazed one like this. It is said that the glaze techniques applied to zishaware was developed to meet the sumptuous demand in the mid-Qing court, and thus a dead end fashion. It is criticized for its excessiveness at the price of diminishing the unique feature of zishaware, the permeability, which makes zisha the best media in communication with tea. However, the partial-glaze technique is forgivable, I think, for it makes the pot more appealing without suffocating it.

My first impression on this pot when it physically arrived in my hands (I bought it online) is delicacy. Rather thin walled and sized so tiny compared with most of my mid to large sized zisha pots, it finalized my knowledge of the so called 水平壺 Shui-ping hu fashion. This type of teapot, nearly fanatically favored in kongfu tea ceremony, usually comes with a standard volume of 120cc, more or less. No craftsman's seal can be found anywhere on the pot but it is inscribed with words "不與俗人仝文旦" (lit. "Not mixed with vulgarians. Wendan") on the base. (仝=同)

A looking to the inside of the pot reveals a seam on the back wall. This can be, according to some convention, a sign for the pot being genuinely handmade (and thus more valuable). But again, it can't be taken as granted!

The pot is made of 朱泥 Zhu-ni or red clay for sure, because the color is vermeil and I can see fine wrinkles on the surface. A noticeable change of color can be observed after pouring hot water in and on it; and more remarkably, its color would turn into dark purple when the water vaporized on the surface of the pot.

So far, I've only tried two Taiwanese high mountain oolongs, namely, 金萱 jin-xuan and 梨山 Li-shan, in this pot, and it performed quite well to these lightly roasted teas.

(The pot, the last infusion, and the spent leaves of Lishan_

Irreversible Taste

2008-06-20T10:50:00.000-07:00

Recently I've been indulging myself in some HIGH quality Oolong teas, especially Taiwanese Oolongs, which are all gifts from friends. To name a few, they are 大禹嶺 Da-yu-ling, 梨山 Li-shan, and 金萱 Jin-xuan made by an organic tea farm called 沙里仙 Shalishan in the 玉山 Yu-shan Mountain range, a famous tea production area in Taiwan. These are all typical Taiwanese high mountain oolongs which are lightly roasted. To be qualified as High Mountain Teas, the tea has to be grown at least 1,200 meters above sea level on a mountain. Da-yu-ling is grown at 2,600 meters above sea level! A high fragrance with a vitality, called 山頭氣 shan tou qi, are appreciated for these teas. These teas are usually enjoyed freshly produced.

In contrast, I've also received two old or aged oolongs, processed more or less similiar to the Mainland oolong tradition. The most famous brand is 凍頂烏龍 Dong-ding oolong. I got a can of 17 year-old Dong-ding from Louisa, and a sample of 20 year-old Taiwanese oolong from Lawrence MarshalN.

The three lightly roasted high mountain oolongs were best steeped with my 掇球 Dou-qiu and 小文旦 mini Wen-dan teapots -- these pots are made of 珠泥 Zhu ni, fired on a rather high tempreture and thus acquired a high density and hardness. Especially the mini Wen-dan pot, if you carefully rub the lid on the rim of the pot, you will hear a rather sharp and clear sound similiar to that of chinaware! These features are believed to be suitable to lightly roasted oolongs, because they can lift up the fragrance of the tea during infusion!

-- Steeping Da-yu-ling with the Dou-qiu pot (notice the tightness of the lid which prevents it falling out even when the pot is turned into vertical position!)

-- Steeping Li-shan in the small Wen-dan pot. Spent leaves.

For the traditionally fuller roasted, and especially aged oolongs, it is believed that a slightly lower fired and less density clay teapot will do a better job. With some experiments, I found my new small 水平 shui-pin pot is quite good in handling the two agaed oolongs!

Okay, I guess then what happens to my taste buds is that they are over experienced with too good teas, for a prolonged time, and they have all got used to the good taste in good teas. What this really mean is that, unfortunately, they can no longer bear any low quality teas! How I discover this? Yesterday, I checked my storage of teas, and decided to try something left over there for a few months. It was also a lightly roasted oolong, a market available brand from China. The tea is whole-leaved but conveniently parked in small sized, vacuumized aluminum bags, each bag with the amount good for one pot. I tried it with my new loveable mini Wen-dan pot, and applied the same mehtod as I've been making teas recently -- but the result was a little terrifying! I found in myself an aversion to the tea -- because it tasted really bad, I mean it.

I could even notice a smell of pollution out of the leaves, the kind of smell of tea production involved with using synthetic fertilizer I believe, even though it was subtle. The leaves also looked thin, smaller, and fragile. Compared with the strong and thick veined high mountain stuff I've drinking these days, it's clear to me that this is not a good tea. But, I still remember a few months ago, when I first received this tea and tried it, it tasted good enough to me!

Now, my taste to good quality oolongs becomes irreversible! Just like once you started using a broad band internet service, you can't go back to the phone jack anymore!

Visiting a Teapal (2) 小鎮訪茶友之二

2008-05-28T13:20:00.000-07:00

【第二回】

廣雲貢餅滋味重茶友情更重
普洱定義難為清品茶自心清

上回說到勞倫斯問山人還想喝什麼茶, 山人答曰"有什麼怪茶拿來試試!" 於是勞倫轉身進屋. 利用這個空閒, 山人起身活動一下, 這時的紺比爾小山鎮一片靜謐, 即將西下的斜陽從四周高大的樹木枝葉空隙間透射過來, 空氣在悄悄地轉涼.

門簧響處, 勞倫斯再次出現, 一手持一泥壺, 一手持兩包茶葉. 這兩包茶葉其一他說是香港人通常叫作「廣雲貢餅」的普洱熟餅(已掰開); 另一是一款水仙(此茶那天最終沒得時間品嚐, 勞倫斯分了我一些帶回家). 為什麼叫「廣雲貢餅」呢? 勞倫斯解釋道, 所謂「廣雲貢餅」就是用雲南普洱毛茶(常有拼配廣東茶菁)在廣東或香港壓製成茶餅, 再經過特殊倉儲而成的普洱熟茶(名字中的"貢"字不過是美化性的字眼). 從某種意義上講, 這類「廣雲貢餅」就是標準的或說是具有代表性的香港(廣東)普洱餅茶.

「廣雲貢餅」乾茶入壺

壺是一隻同類無名氏小泥壺. 其造型山人不敢恭維--尤其是壺蓋鈕部位, 顯得有些笨拙---不過勞倫斯似乎不以其為丑, 還說是新購得的一把, 尚未完全開壺. 看他用起來倒是蠻得心應手的!

洗茶兩次(勞倫斯洗茶一次之後徵詢我的意見, 並說他有時僅洗一次. 我要求再洗一次, 但說洗茶的水可以嚐嚐). 一至三泡湯色深濃. 口味與一般"人工渥堆"熟茶的醇厚甘滑有明顯不同. 湯質重且對舌有較直接的沖擊力(也許就是有勁兒); 略苦澀; 喉感略乾; 香氣中仍帶有典型"港倉味", 雖然這次的倉味明顯較上款"濕倉烏龍"能為山人所接受! 第三泡後出現明顯回甘. 溫飲湯甜.

三泡湯色: 氤氳茶氣初散, 湯液光影交映.

一邊品著這款「廣雲貢餅」, 二人一邊聊起關於怎樣定義普洱茶的問題. 勞倫斯認為, 只有這種經過入倉(先濕後乾)完成後發酵的普洱茶才能叫做[傳統意義的]普洱茶. 據他說在香港的茶商有各自的倉庫, 無論是用雲南茶菁還是拼加廣東茶菁壓製的茶餅第一步都要放入"地倉". 所謂地倉就是地下室或香港依山而建的樓房在山下一面的儲藏室中, 放置一年或長短不等時間, 中間翻倉, 然後取出再放置到乾燥儲藏室中(在乾燥儲藏室中的時間往往要達到濕倉存儲時的兩倍以上)--這就是所謂"濕倉"和"退倉". 但"濕倉"並非任其潮濕, 而是有人為控制, 必要時甚至需要灑石灰以減少濕度. 這樣經過倉儲陳化後的茶餅拿出來賣, 香港人才會喝. 因為, 根據中醫理論, 普洱生茶性烈, 有會傷害身體的顧慮而不宜飲用. -- 以上是山人轉述勞倫斯所講香港人對普洱茶的傳統或普遍觀念.

勞倫斯還說, 其他地方(如雲南和北方)不具備香港的倉儲環境, 因此無論多久的"自然陳化"也無法達到港倉所能達到的普洱茶狀態. 但似乎他承認七十年代雲南茶葉公司下屬國營廠家研製的"人工渥堆"普洱熟茶是"可以喝的普洱茶"!

--- 聽到這裡, 山人實再忍不住要發問: "那麼, 雲南大葉種曬青毛茶壓製的生餅(未曾入倉時)就不是普洱茶了嗎?" (此處暫時不討論雲南小葉種茶樹產品是否普洱茶的問題, 因為山人認為至少就近而論大葉種對雲南茶樹種類而言更具代表性.) 就此疑問, 勞倫斯答說: "那些生餅在嚴格意義上只能算是製作普洱茶的原料階段"!

山人問: "那麼這種你認為的香港傳統普洱茶的歷史是從何時開始的呢?" 勞倫斯想了想說: "應該不會超過(二次大戰)戰前, 也就是三、四十年代左右." 查周紅傑的《雲南普洱茶一書》中也提到:

1940年, 中國茶葉公司開始在佛海茶廠(今勐海茶廠)生產"中茶牌"普洱茶, 此後雲南茶葉公司和廣東茶葉公司生產的(廣雲餅)普洱茶均使用這一商標作為外銷商標. (p.36)

以及

發水渥堆熟普洱茶由昆明茶廠1973年研製、下關茶廠1976年試製. 此前, 廣東亦從雲南調進原料生產發水熟普洱茶. (p.37)

看來, 廣東香港的普洱茶製作工藝對今天的人工渥堆普洱茶工藝是有不可忽視的重要影響.

山人疑問: "那麼, 為什麼現在會有這麼多人極力主張普洱生茶也是普洱茶, 以致於因某一雲南地方官員發表"不能用普洱生茶忽悠老百姓"的言論而招致以石昆牧等人為代表的群起抨擊呢?" 山人與勞倫斯都認為, 這當中當然有新生代茶商利益和新的市場導向的因素, 同時對於普洱曬青生茶茶性的再認識, 特別是其對健康的益處的探究也是不容忽視的一個新方向.

然而不管怎麼說, 後發酵是普洱茶的最大特點 -- 在製茶過程中, 允許後發酵--不論是自然陳化還是人工熟化--的發生是現代意義上的普洱茶生產的目的, 這一點山人與勞倫斯達成共識.

我們知道, 2003年3月雲南省標準計畫局公佈的"雲南普洱茶定"義為:

雲南省一定區域內大葉種曬青茶經後發酵而成的各種產品. 發酵有兩個途徑: 一, 自然發酵, 從不加水, 放置陳化若干年後, 香港俗稱"原舊普洱茶"或"生普"; 二, 人工發酵, 加水渥堆, 出堆即稱"熟普".

--- 對此定義的批判與討論見石昆牧《經典普洱名詞釋義》.

我們也知道, 後來, 2006年雲南省又搞出了一個新的《標準》{1}. 該標準將普洱茶定義為

雲南特有的地理標誌產品, 以符合普洱茶產地環境條件的雲南大葉種曬青茶為原料, 按特定的加工工藝生產, 具有獨特品質特徵的茶葉. 普洱茶分為普洱茶(生茶)和普洱茶(熟茶)兩大類型.

此外, 網上還能找到其他"修正性"普洱茶定義, 如說

普洱茶是歷史以來形成的雲南特有的地方名茶. 是以雲南原產地的大葉種曬青茶及其再加工而成兩個系列: 直接再加工為成品的生普和經過人工速成發酵後再加工而成的熟普. 型製上又分散茶和緊壓茶兩類; 成品後都還持續進行著自然陳化過程, 具有越陳越香的獨特品質.{2}

山人認為, 雖然勞倫斯對香港倉儲的普洱茶產品的有所(或說過分)偏好導致其對普洱茶定義的狹窄化, 但如果考慮到七十年代初, 雲南幾家茶廠派人到廣東學習普洱茶後發酵工藝以及港澳地區為當時普洱茶主要消費地區的事實{3}, 就不難看出原來那種強調只有經過人工渥堆的熟茶才是普洱茶的理論(表現為早期的定義)其實不過是香港傳統普洱茶觀念(即只有入倉茶才是普洱茶)順理成章的翻版. 只不過, 這樣翻版之後掌握了人工渥堆這一新後發酵利器的雲南人就可以順理成章地將普洱茶回歸為雲南的地理標誌產品, 從而一雪向廣東香港人學習製作"普洱茶發酵工藝"的尷尬心態. 這倒很有點兒像老虎向貓學藝的寓言啊.

現在看來, 勞倫斯款待的這款「廣雲貢餅」雖並非什麼山人本來想要的"怪茶", 但山人真地很感謝他給俺上的這一堂歷史課[注: 勞倫斯的專業是中國晚清歷史]!

時間在輕鬆的壺盞交錯和專注的討論中很快地過去, 風吹到身上感到的涼意提醒我們傍晚的降臨. 五壺日本鐵壺燒開水泡的茶落進二人肚中, 這時也開始飢腸轆轆! 於是鳴金收兵, 回到屋裡交換了幾種茶葉樣品 --- 準備地說是山人(僅)用一款17年Lousia贈的老台灣烏龍(不平等地)換得勞倫斯的四種茶樣, 分別是:

一款廣雲貢餅

一款香港熟普洱散茶

一款老水仙

一款上次茶會品過的20年台灣老烏龍

然後二人去鎮上一家餐館吃飯(勞倫斯的女友加入), 謝謝勞倫斯的款待... 之後山人即打道回府.

.... 勞倫斯就要從小鎮搬走了, 期待在他們搬到美國更遠地方之前再能聚會!

====================

{1}相關網上資料
{2}相關網上資料
{3}相關網上資料

Visiting a Teapal 小鎮訪茶友

2008-05-24T18:55:00.000-07:00

【第一回】
震波遙感痛定思山人出遊訪茶友
小鎮鄉情紀念日烏龍茶老味崢嶸

5月24日, 週六, 美國陣亡將士紀念日(Memorial Day)長週末的第一天. 與勞倫斯約好到他那裡品茶.

從我這裡到他那裡開車要一個多小時. 中間有很長一段是一條橫越丘陵地貌的公路, 起伏不平, 時而上坡, 時而下坡--- 兩旁是典型的北美中西部鄉村景象, 還看到了幾塊牧場, 見到牛, 羊, 甚至一處放著南美洲駝羊(Llamas and alpacas)--這可是有些少見. 天空晴朗, 飄浮著白雲 -- 出門的好天氣. 好像又有很久沒有駕車遠行了, 雖然只有一個小時的路, 感覺卻很愜意.

【小鎮印象】
紺比爾(Gambier)小鎮除了那裡有個肯庸學院(Kenyon College)之外, 再沒有什麼值得一提的. 該鎮在沃農山市(Mt. Vernon)東約4英里半. 沃農山倒有點兒說頭兒, 因為那是喬治‧華盛頓的故鄉. 一條叫做科科星(Kokosing)的小河在這裡流淌而過. 因為今天是陣亡將士紀念日, 上午這裡大概舉行過活動, 所以我經過時還看到不少人群. 不過, 在肯庸學院暫居一年多的勞倫斯告訴我, 沃農山平時也是沒有什麼動靜的. 因此我在這樣的特殊日子訪問沃農山一帶倒也是不錯的機緣.

因為天氣好, 我們就在屋外擺下茶案. 勞倫斯首先款待的是一餅好像是叫什麼福壽堂的05年普洱生餅. 壺用的是一把很奇怪的小泥壺. 我感覺到第三泡茶味出來了, 於是我說"這茶不夠勁兒!" 值得一提是勞倫斯的這把泥壺: 不知是什麼泥, 低密度, 無款... 做成典型的"水平壺"的型式.

峰迴路轉. 第二壺勞倫斯亮出絕活: 一款老台灣凍頂烏龍! 壺也換成了一把朱泥四方八棱, 上雋《傷寒論》句, 另一面是凸雕山水, 意境別致. 茶杯用的是勞倫斯博客裡描述過的平日喝茶的彩繪人物大杯.

此茶頗令山人不能招架! 細觀乾葉, 但見深咖啡色條索卷曲的葉上薄薄地有一層幾乎看不到的白霜.

沖水洗茶兩遍後, 第一泡湯色深紅, 此後數泡湯色幾乎維持不改... 味呢? 照我的話說就是"有明顯霉味"! 勞倫斯也承認, 這款茶似可以稱之為"濕倉烏龍"! -- 也就是說, 此茶確在存儲中有一定程度的霉變 -- 但是, 是被認為可以接受的, 甚至 -- 按勞倫斯的話說 -- 是"喝著有勁兒"的茶!

接下來勞倫斯給我講了他對大陸和台灣烏龍茶區別的見解. 首先, 他認為在新茶階段, 台灣烏龍茶味道不及大陸(福建)正統烏龍茶, 特別是經過傳統焙火的烏龍茶; 但是, "老"烏龍茶, 或說烏龍茶陳放之後, 大陸的就不及台灣的 -- 這主要是說經傳統焙火的烏龍茶類, 不包括那些以新鮮和揚香為特色的高山烏龍茶. 凍頂烏龍就是一個很好的例子. 凍頂從嚴格意義上講, 應當不屬於高山茶類! 這也是為什麼它的乾茶不像多數高山茶那樣呈球狀, 而是條索形. 但是近年來, 大陸(也許是受台灣茶客影響?)也開始流行輕焙火烏龍茶(這一點我從近兩年所得到的鐵觀音幾乎都是輕焙火得到認同). 在大陸, 很少有人會問津老烏龍茶. 勞倫斯述及他在北京馬連道遍尋老烏龍茶不得, 得到的所謂老烏龍也都喝著沒勁道. -- 當然這很可能代表的是香港茶客的烏龍茶意識[山人批注]

在這當口, 山人向勞倫斯咨詢了一個一直不得其解的問題. 正好最近法友Louisa也饋贈山人不少台灣烏龍茶, 包括高山茶類和兩款老烏龍茶. 其一為民國八十年(1991)冬南投凍頂烏龍比賽獲優良獎的--上次在高岸茶會時誤為07年茶. 另一為不知年份產地的老烏龍茶(但可推斷時間沒有那款比賽茶久). 前者一直表現甚佳, 無可挑剔. 但在沏泡後者時山人常感覺茶湯有一種難以形容的"掛舌"或"臘質"感, 懷疑是與存儲過程中氧化過度所致? 我試泡了這種茶給勞倫斯, 但他嚐後認為沒有多大問題.

見山人對"濕倉凍頂"現顰蹙相, 勞倫斯打馬收兵, 問道: "還想喝什麼茶?" 山人沉吟片刻, 卻也想不出什麼特別的來, 剛才見他櫃子林林總總裡藏了不少茶, 就說: "有什麼怪茶拿來試試!" --- 勞倫斯轉身進了屋子.

欲知後事如何?
且聽下回分解!

下回提要: 普洱茶定義大爭論

Truth in Absurdity 波後餘思之二: 荒誕的大實話

2008-05-20T20:43:00.000-07:00

--- Intially posted on my Sina Blog 覺香山居 ---

5.12震波洶湧之後, 四萬餘生命被奪去之後, 我們終於明白了這樣一個道理 -- 當然是經由可信的媒體 -- 那就是:

大地震挽救了中國, 為中國人爭回了面子; 地震本來是壞事, 可到了咱們這兒就是壞事成了好事. 所以說, 歸根結底, 地震真是個大好事啊! 你不信? 請看新華網上刊載的最具代表性的

先驅評論: 中國表現讓西方"無話可說"
http://news.xinhuanet.com/world/2008-05/20/content_8211532.htm

--- 特別請注意無話可說是加了引號的...

從裡面摘幾段讀讀就全明白了. 【注: 『』中均引自原文】此文起首頗為有力度:

『几十年后回头来看此次地震灾难，它在推动中国国际形象改善，以及促使自身现代民族国家的成熟上，将具有里程碑式的意义.』
--- 我們真想問一句: 您看是不是再來兩回大地震咱們中華民族的形象就完全成熟了? 咱中國的國際形象就完全改善了? 對吧? 可是還要再等"幾十年"啊, 冤!

『中国发生“5·12”汶川大地震之后，西方媒体给予了大量积极正面的报道。一直以来认为“中国媒体不可信”的西方媒体，比如CNN、BBC等，在此次地震报道中都大量使用了中国媒体的电视画面和文字报道，这十分少见。』
--- 中國媒體不可信這幾個字竟然是加了引號的, 要不然, 我們真會以為這是實話呢! CNN BBC等西方媒體都"大量"使用了中國媒體的電視畫面和文字報導, 這十分少見 -- 是啊, 不用這些用什麼呢(在"不能第一时间进入现场"的情況下 -- 引文見下)? 喂! 你, 是想說中國媒體的電視畫面和文字報導不可信, 所以被用了才是少見的嗎???

『与之前报道西藏“3·14事件”、“奥运圣火传递”相比，西方媒体报道的态度来了个180度的大转弯。即使有少量负面报道和批评声音，但这些已经让西方读者觉得不那么可信了。西方民众、媒体评论人，总体上都正面评价中国政府组织的抗震救灾，以及赞扬中国人民在灾难面前表现出来的勇气。』
--- "180度"的大轉彎啊!

『西方媒体态度的大转变，也让一些国人感到惊喜：西方媒体似乎一夜间变得友善起来。』
--- "驚喜"? 心驚肉跳! 才"一夜之間"啊 --- 再來點厲害的還不得轉360度啊? 暈!

『以笔者看来，西方媒体态度的变化，跟中国本身的危机处理方式有很大关系。在某种意义上说，是中国改变了自己之后才改变了西方媒体。西藏发生“3·14”打砸抢烧事件，其实质是中国政府采取行动维护法律秩序，这是正当的，是任何一个政府都会这么做的，但是在危机处理上却存在一些缺憾。透明度不够，西方媒体自身不能第一时间进入现场，而它们又认为从中国媒体上取得的信息“不可靠”，这样就促使它们制造新闻、编造故事。』
--- 親愛的"筆者", 您真體貼! --- 其实质是中国政府采取行动维护法律秩序，这是正当的，是任何一个政府都会这么做的，但是在危机处理上却存在一些缺憾。透明度不够，西方媒体自身不能第一时间进入现场，而它们又认为从中国媒体上取得的信息“不可靠”，这样就促使它们制造新闻、编造故事! 哦, 原來如此. I gotcha. 老外們, 你們都沒錯兒, 你們也是沒辦法嘛!

『在西方人的传统语境中，中国跟缅甸同是所谓的“威权主义国家”。但这一次，西方舆论也在思考，同是“威权主义国家”，但在救灾中的表现为何却截然不同？进而，美国是所谓的典型的“民主国家”，但它却在几年前的卡特里娜飓风救灾中为何表现得如此糟糕？』
--- "西方輿論也在思考"哎, 那麼"進而..."又是誰的思考呢? 您可真能把握西方輿論的脈搏啊. 沒號錯手吧?

『因此，很多西方媒体和学者在惊叹中国救灾能力和效率的同时，也在开始反思：评判一种制度的好坏，是不是只有“民主”和“威权”这两个标签式的概念？所谓“民主”的国家如果不能为老百姓服务，或者没有能力为老百姓服务，那么这个政府也会失去基础。』
--- 哪個政府? 西方某個還是....?

『正是中国在地震灾难中，所表现出来的对人的尊重，对生命的关爱，符合西方媒体的价值判断，西方媒体才有了如此之多的对华正面报道。也就是说，西方媒体还是有其道德底线的，这就是尊重“人道救助”或者“人道干预”，不管是虚伪与否。』
--- 您是想說: 中國只在地震中才表現出對人的尊重, 對生命的關愛? 只有這樣做了, 才符合西方媒体的价值判断, 西方媒体才有了如此之多的对华正面报道?? -- 嗯, 看來震得還不夠, 要不怎麼還敢"有少量负面报道和批评声音"呢?! 西方媒体还是有其道德底线的，这就是尊重“人道救助”或者“人道干预”，不管是虚伪与否。您說得再明白不過了!
--- 嗚呼! 我們讀不下去了, 因為不是會被氣死就是會發瘋要不就是發呆! 眼睛合不上.

不僅僅死人會不暝目, 活人也會啊!

那些大地震中喪生的靈魂, 你們安息吧! 你們給中國掙回了面子, 祖國為你們自豪!

Prayers for the sake of victims in the 5-12 Earthquake in China

2008-05-14T19:29:00.000-07:00

To see an animation of quakes on MSN World News.

Following the advices given by Lama Zopa Rinpoche in his Letter From Lama Zopa Rinpoche Regarding the Disasters of the Elements, the following Dharma practices and prayers will be done at the Mt Awakening Aroman.

Tea offering to the merit field (which includes all the Three Jewels [Buddha, Dharma, Sangha], mind-seal deities, bodhisattvas, arhats, dakas, dakinis, and protectors who are beyond samsara.)
Offer tea to the eight worldly ones (de gye), especially, the eight groups of worldly devas, who are closely connected to the elements and who create the wind, water, earth, and fire and the violence and disasters that are created by these elements that are so destructive.
Recite Kshitigarbha mantra.
Medicine Buddha puja and mantra.
Take the 24-hour eight Mahayana precepts.

Highbanks, High Teas, High Friends

2008-05-14T09:33:00.000-07:00

5月10日(農曆四月初六), 北美中西部持續一週的春雨天氣此日放晴一天(第二天, 復雨) -- 真是天公作美! 因為早就約下了在博客上結識的茶友勞倫斯(Lawrence)來哥城, 作為特邀佳賓參加我們在城北高岸自然公園(Highbanks Metro Park)的茶會. 天氣預報網站說週六將會是個晴天, 於是日子就定在了這天, 可還是一直擔心著, 並已做好如果下雨茶會就改就在山居舉行的準備--- 週六一早, 看到藍天白雲的晴朗天氣, 幾日以來對天氣的擔心煙消雲散.

從茶會小屋前望草地, 樹林和藍天白雲【注】攝影: Tianyao, Mei, Qing; 剪輯: 山人(下同)

茶會的地點是精心選定的. 冬天來這裡採雪的時候就看中這個地方: 偏離散策主道的一條小徑, 引向小溪上的一座木橋, 過了橋, 一間隱蔽在樹叢中的, 有壁爐, 三面牆兩面有窗, 一面開放的小棚屋便出現在眼前. 屋子開放的一邊面對一片開闊的草地 -- 有收有放, 傍水依林的環境形成理想的戶外茶會場所.

【來賓簡介】

特邀佳賓一人: 勞倫斯(Lawrence), 博客A Tea Addict's Journal(《茶癮君子》)博主.

台灣茶友四人: Ya-li, Jeff, Zhuang-ying, Hsiao-feng

北京及廣州等大陸茶友七人: Mei & Dong, Tianyao, Wei, Qing, Miao & Jie

茶會組織者: 山人
(共13人)

【茶會程序】

本次茶會以烏龍茶為主打!

山人拋磚引玉, 試泡台灣茶友Fang-ying帶來的台灣普通輕焙火烏龍.

勞倫斯展示用日本鐵壺煮水沏泡一款20年香港老烏龍.

山人與台灣茶友吳君Ya-li同時沏泡兩款台灣高山茶: (紅塵甘露贈)台灣06年凍頂烏龍比賽茶和Ya-li的07年阿里山1200公尺高山茶 -- 烏龍鬥烏龍!

一. 入重從輕

一泡輕焙火烏龍茶拉開茶會序幕 (操壺者山人, 近旁觀者勞倫斯). 此茶突顯台灣大眾化烏龍茶強調健康休閒的品味, 湯色亮麗, 香揚, 易泡. 葉底單薄輕脆--台地茶園茶特徵.

二. 茶人現本色重手伏老龍

勞倫斯的「清光」款日本生鐵壺. 下面是一架老舊酒精燈--保持水溫. 水是先在煤氣爐上燒開的.

勞倫斯溫壺, 山人觀看.

鐵壺煮水泡老茶 -- 韻味深長!

勞倫斯的八棱砂壺, 穩坐在山人用墨西哥薄餅盒改造設計的茶海上!

20年老烏龍湯色.

13人的茶! 勞倫斯的砂壺容量約為200毫升, 需要兩壺才能夠分(茶葉泡漲).

--- 此款20年老烏龍異常耐泡! 至20泡湯色滋味不減. 山人品之, 其有特殊陳香, 濃而不釅, 香而不揚, 氤氳婉轉, 喉韻綿長 -- 據勞倫斯說, 他發現用此日本生鐵壺燒水沏泡, 增加了喉韻. 觀察葉底, 雖陳化老茶, 但葉仍舒展, 有彈性, 深褐色(近咖啡色) -- 由此可見, 老烏龍與老普洱茶為完全不同的陳化形態. 此中詳細, 尚需進一步研究. 山人憶飲此茶之意境曰:

若於月下松間, 細聽石上流水.... 宛見古屋壁上煙霞璨動, 野鶴化而飛去....

勞倫斯用茶針清理壺嘴 -- 山人曾向茶友介紹過壺流為單孔的傳統砂壺以及茶針的用途. 今天學生們終於見到了實物演示!

三. 烏龍相爭 -- 茶人相宜

上: 06凍頂比賽茶下: 07海拔1200公尺高山茶.

此兩款雖同為台灣高山茶類, 但品性截然不同. 前者乾茶呈條索狀, 乾燥緊密, 色澤暗綠泛灰(焙火較重), 近無梗; 後者乾茶呈球狀, 色澤墨綠帶青氣(焙火較輕), 現梗. 沖泡後, 前者出焙火香, 口感調伏, 無生茶氣; 後者口味雖較本會第一壺之普通台灣烏龍為豐富, 但茶性相似, 仍以揚香清新為特色. 葉底明顯厚壯, 突顯高海拔茶葉生長特質.

借鐵壺, 鬥山茶

分享的樂趣(茶: 凍頂比賽茶)

Ya-li說: 選哪個壺呢? 小壺說: 用我! 大壺說: 哼, 你肚量太小!

1200公尺的綠與香! Ya-li的茶 -- 還是用了她的台灣紫泥壺.

【茶會插曲】

茶會進行中, 一些茶友到屋外享受春光, 突然發現一隻河狸(beaver), 搖頭擺尾從樹叢中走出來...

可大家正要接近給它拍照時, 害羞的河狸轉身就走, 只留下個肥肥尾巴背影讓你拍!

【茶會終曲】

盛宴難為久
曲盡席成空
茶人兩相望
洗杯映斜陽

左上: 勞倫斯左腿! 右上: 山人右腿!

期待下次的相聚, 有緣, 有茶, 或風和日麗, 或風雨飄搖....

本文攝影: Tianyao, Mei, Qing; 剪輯: 山人

A sun-set reflection on your teapot?

2008-04-30T09:29:00.001-07:00

I'm always fascinated by the transient beauty of water trace on the surface of a zisha teapot after pouring hot water on it -- a process of gongfu tea ceremony.

On this occasion, a village girl, carrying a basket on her head and led by a dog, appeared on the pot!

春日山居迎新茶之三: 08明前獅峰龍井二法品鑑

2008-04-17T22:48:00.000-07:00

Originally posted at 覺香山居

--- 前試雙且先生所贈今年春摘黃山毛峰, 今再試Louisa贈明前獅峰龍井. 計劃用法式玻璃咖啡壓杯及(冷月贈)白瓷薄胎蓋碗兩種方法同時試泡, 以期比較觀察.

陳文華編著之《中華茶文化基礎知識》一書中說:
西湖龍井--產於浙江省杭州市西湖西南龍井村四周的獅峰山梅家塢等地, 故名西湖龍井茶. ...有獅龍梅三個品類. 其中以獅峰龍井最佳. 其色綠中顯黃, 呈糙米色, 香氣高銳持久, 滋味鮮醇.

今此款茶, 據Louisa講, 是上月由她在國內一航空公司朋友帶為訂購, 來源當為可靠. 先出示第三泡蓋碗湯葉亮麗可愛之狀以享各位眼目:

【乾葉觀察】此茶片薄完整. 色黃綠間嫩綠. 嗅之香氣醇厚. 捻之乾脆. 入口咀嚼, 脆香苦澀, 漸化舌上, 微起涼意, 生津明顯.

【茶具準備】

1-法式玻璃咖啡壓杯(入水300cc); 2-白瓷蓋碗(100cc); 3a-b-玻璃公道杯二; 4-試水溫度計; 5a-b-品茗杯(約30cc)二.

【投茶量】
A. 法式玻璃咖啡壓杯入水300cc - 投茶7.4克
B. 100cc蓋碗 - 投茶4克

【品鑑過程】
1A. 法式玻璃咖啡壓杯一泡情形:

1B. 蓋碗一泡情形:

2. 二泡比較:

3. 三泡比較:

4. 三泡後葉底(上下依次為玻璃咖啡壓杯及蓋碗泡法所得). 皆一槍一旗, 圓潤飽滿:

【品鑑感受】
可以八個字概括之曰:

清 - 冽 - 香 - 醇 - 澀 - 苦 - 甘 - 涼

【二法比較】
玻璃杯泡者味較清冽, 蓋碗泡者味較醇厚; 就湯質言, 蓋碗泡者較更飽滿. 此外, 蓋碗發香較玻璃杯為更好. 但玻璃杯出湯保持溫度時間長, 而蓋碗泡者茶湯溫度降低速度快, 這也許與水量少有關?

飲三泡已, 夕陽西下, 編圖片寫網志畢, 復吟[清]張日熙《採茶歌》曰:

江南愁思盈芳草採茶歌裡春光老
春自催歸茶自香筠籃無那紅塵道
生小兒家龍井山峰前峰後好煙鬟
清明寒食絲絲雨素腕玲瓏只自攀
東家採早新月白西家採遲梅雨碧
遲早年來活計諳嫩芽收向筠籠密
布裙紅出儉梳妝茶事將登桑事忙
玉腕薰爐香茗洌可憐不是採茶娘

--- 山人一詠而三嘆之. 噫~ 好茶人生, 一品足矣!

春日山居迎春茶之二: 黃山毛峰08春摘有機茶試品

2008-04-17T22:12:00.000-07:00

Originally posted at 覺香山居

昨周六下午五時許山居先行小型茶會, 與部分茶友分享新茶新器, 席間談興應酬, 未及記錄, 今日早起天色方陰, 午後一時許片刻轉晴, 山人小寐已, 沐浴更衣, 佛前燃燈焚香, 備具安坐, 再試且飲且讀所贈2008年春摘黃山毛峰!

此款毛峰有機綠茶, 封才撕開, 頓見細毫於袋中騰起; 置乾茶碟上觀察, 芽頭挺秀, 其色嫩綠, 漫披白毫. 捻芽一朵入口咀嚼, 乾爽鬆脆, 初微苦, 繼而澀且甜, 嚥之無礙!

昨茶會中先試下投法, 見水沖下而葉隨浮起, 久不下沉; 故今特再試中投法, 用法式玻璃咖啡壓杯, 水燒開取下候至90餘度, 注入杯中至三分之一, 投茶5.9克, 持杯微盪之, 再沿杯壁注湯至200cc. 初泡約1分鍾出湯, 二泡延至2.5分鍾, 三泡更延至4分鍾出湯. 初泡時但見芽葉先浮水面, 杯頂水霧凝聚, 結水珠於杯壁. 稍頃, 芽漸直立, 逐一緩緩下沉...

二泡葉芽部分懸浮, 部分沉落

初泡湯色味清淡, 入口略澀, 杯內葉嗅之有蘭花清香; 二泡三泡皆甘醇, 香氣持久; 三泡延時出湯, 色略轉深. 此初至三泡湯色:

三泡後觀葉底, 芽頭完整, 光澤瑩潤, 色淺綠泛黃, 確現象牙質感.

三泡飲已開始寫博, 中間再嘗前三泡冷湯, 仍有餘香. 但四泡因忘記及時出湯, 致使茶味轉變, 口感反不及初三泡冷湯, 不可不記.

茶事記已, 更思友情. 且飲且讀先生, 余博友也, 然尚未某面, 唯以文交心耳. 知先生教書育人, 春風桃李, 且文思通貫古今, 旁徵博引, 精辟獨到, 讀者無不感佩. 茲妄借古人詩一首以酬友恩. 廣陵王逢源《謝張和仲惠寶雲茶》詩曰:

故人有意真憐我靈荈封題寄篳門
與療文園消渴病還招楚客獨醒魂
烹來似帶吳雲腳摘處應無谷雨痕
果肯同嘗竹林下寒泉猶有惠山存

3 Combats with XGZF old cake

2008-04-05T16:27:00.000-07:00

~ACKNOWLEDGMENT ~

I'd like to thank Mr Cloudstea for commenting my last article and guiding me with his expertise in puerh tea collection which could lead a reasonable judgement for this cake with a year of early 1990s.

Mr Cloudstea has also kindly posted his comments directly on my blog on Sina. However, due to that the comment contains urls pointing to blog entries on Blogger, not unexpectedly, it was removed by the Sina system! Nevertheless, I was able to catch a screenshot showing a headline of the comment still showing on the left "new comments" panel -- see image below! As you can see, Mr Cloudstea's name (in Chinese) was still appearing on the top of the list, but you couldn't find the actual comment under the article. And after an hour or so, even this trace was gone...

I have tried the cake - three times in a raw! The following is a review of this old intractable cake, known as 下關中茶牌繁體字七子餅 (XGZF) or Xia-Guan Zhong-cha Trade Mark with label printed in Traditional Chinese characters (this is a mirror of the article posted on my blog on Sina).

前文說到山人最近得加州洛杉磯友Louisa贈半塊下關中茶牌繁體字七子餅. 本週末, 山人連試此餅三次. 體驗頗為有趣, 特總結記錄並分享之. 首先要說明的是, 茶好不好是次要的, 觀察試驗與經驗學習更重要. 何況試茶之中, 人為主觀及茶自身等等變量眾多, 實難定性, 但也正因此而使每次試茶成為有趣之事也.

經三次開泡試茶 -- 最後一次得小刀在QQ上即時指點 -- 觀察結果是:

此茶為典型港倉(尚非嚴重濕倉)

茶餅發生霉變 -- 掰開後發現內層也有白霜, 局部嚴重

推斷後期保存不好(Louisa述此餅一直置於塑膠袋中!)或退倉失敗

湯色靚麗透明、顏色誘人

六泡尚有明顯倉味(最後轉成類似中藥味)

葉底柔軟有彈性, 揉壓不成泥, 纖維較挺實

處理方法:

敲開置陶罐中--也許明年再試吧哈哈...

【初戰】告北

週六晚山居茶會上泡第二種茶時山人即試此茶. 因到會客多達12人, 用450cc大壺(山人之香雪海), 投入30g乾茶, 結果發現此茶用大壺很難調伏, 倉味嚴重. 出茶稍怠, 或泡間等水開時間稍延, 即致湯味重不可飲. 來客多無普洱茶經驗者, 皆不喜歡. 只有一廣州茶友說可以接受, 言第三泡時得回甘. 因此匆匆收起.

【二戰】知性

第二天一早, 山人早餐後獨自再次試泡. 這次用150cc朱泥小西施壺. 投茶7.5g. 洗茶三次. 開水取下待三次呼吸, 緩低入壺. 第一至三泡, 10秒以內出湯.

感評

湯質尚飽滿, 不滑, 較苦澀, 回甘不明顯

舌中後兩側及上牙床內側澀感明顯

入喉無大阻力, 不鎖喉

倉味嚴重(也許就是所謂樟香?)

湯色深橙紅色亮麗 -- 湯色誘人但(山人感覺)不太好喝!

飲後有口乾舌燥感

耐泡

【三戰】得「木蘭」軍師指點

這時電腦上開著的QQ群視窗「唧唧」聲響, 視之乃小刀、且飲上來也! 聊數句, 山人述此茶之狀. 小刀立刻建議「乾茶隔壺水蒸法」, 即將乾茶投壺中, 加蓋(不加水), 放(開蓋)燒水壺上蒸, 蒸一會兒就開蓋搖動, 嗅之檢查異味情況. 如是反復進行. 待異味消除, 茶味出時即止. 小刀要求山人即試此法, 並說想看是否能改善. 於是山人洗壺燒水, 重整旗鼓. 又掰下7.5g, 這次遇到局部霉變較嚴重之處(見下圖片). 真所謂霜重色愈濃!

先照上法蒸了半天, 發現異味非一時可減輕. 不過此非方法問題, 實此餅倉味過重且發生霉變所致. 但經此幾番蒸炙, 還是多多少少去掉了一些異味, 此至第四泡時即見效果.

感評

第一至三泡倉味仍重.

第四泡有所減輕. 變成(山人感覺)可以接受的中藥味!

第五六泡湯色略轉淡, 略有回甘.

葉底如上所述(見圖)

一至六泡湯色

三洗六泡後葉底

燈影湯色

小刀還提了幾項【泡老茶的注意事項】

注水時要沿壺邊注入, 可多半入壺內, 小半淋壺外, 保持壺溫

水滿加蓋5秒後出湯

出湯時要用(最好非金屬)茶濾, 並沿茶濾外沿, 緩緩轉圈式倒入公道杯中, 目的在於使茶湯與空氣多接觸, 可令湯味甜

【評感表現不佳其他原因】

不適應入倉老茶, 因此對霉味敏感; 就像老外看到我們吃皮蛋津津有味, 眼睛會瞪圓! -- 此等"過期"霉變之物怎能吃得???

【小刀提問】

用沖老茶之法對嗎?

口不乾的原因是什麼? -- 怎麼來的怎麼消失的?

喉部的堵塞感消失了嗎?

請各博友踴躍解答!

此時已是北美東部時間近正午一時許 -- 小刀國內時間午夜了!

Half cake of Xiaguan Zhong-cha Trade Mark Qi Zi Beeng

2008-03-27T19:59:00.000-07:00

--- This article first posted on my blog on Sina.

My friend Louisa at LA just sent me half cake of a Xiaguan Zhong-cha trade mark Qi-zi-beeng with label in Traditional Chinese characters, which she bought 7 or 8 years ago! This batch of Qi zi beeng is widely known as "Te Beeng" or Iron Cake, and is well described by Cloud's Tea Collection. My first judgement on this cake is a product between 1999 to 2001.

Will taste it tomorrow or the day after! More forthcoming.... ;-)

山人上週接到在加州久未聯係一法友Louisa之電話, 敘關於台灣大選事. Louisa亦馬氏擁護者, 故大選結果發出次日電話致賀. 聊中談起山人近年來頗嗜茶之事. 電話後, Louisa突然想起七八年前曾購得普洱老茶一餅, 因不甚了解, 一直束之高閣, 未曾開試. 特尋出後再次打電話給山人, 問關於普洱茶品飲事. 電話中她形容了一下該餅包裝, 余一聽, 立翻周紅傑主編《雲南普洱茶》一書, 對照Louisa的描述, 當時即判定該餅就是下關中茶牌繁體字七子餅之一款! Louisa問山人是否有興趣, 若然則願分一塊共享. 余當然喜不自禁, 立即請求之. 四日後, 半餅寄到山居! 哇卡卡-- Thank you, Louisa!

余特請求將包裝紙一同寄來以便查證. 此餅包裝如下:

觀此款包裝, 其文字設計與浮雲藏茶所論之下關茶廠中茶牌簡繁體七子餅特徵完全相符, 即

中茶牌繁簡體均沒有英文字；

而茶體亦沒有任何內飛；

但卻有一張筒飛，而這張筒飛卻不是筒筒可見......

而且

中茶繁體字版下面寫: 中國土產畜產進出口公司雲南省茶葉公司

中茶繁體的「雲南七子餅茶」最後的「茶」字的最後一點是「圓」點

印刷油墨的感覺，中茶繁體是「實」的，「死死的」，有點像「現代印刷」

(全文見此)

照Louisa自述, 購此餅時間為七八年前, 則此茶至遲當為2001年產品. Louis說她購得此餅後從未打開, 而是一直置放在她在美國加州洛杉磯家中的廚房高櫃中. 美國家庭廚房, 通風性良好, 且相對乾燥. 觀此茶餅陳化程度, 似有更早年出產的可能性. 按「浮雲藏茶」所描述之一九九九年此品牌茶特點, 山人初步判定此餅當為1999至2002年之間產品. 另, 此餅顏色與周紅傑書上所載「百茶堂」提供的一款同品牌茶餅非常相似, 在此餅底面也出現了與該圖中相同的白色物質(見下圖). 且據Louisa說, 此餅非常堅硬, 她是用厚刀費很大力才將之切開 -- 這也符合此品牌七子餅被市場統稱「鐵餅」的特徵.

--- 今日無暇, 明後日開湯將進一步觀察對比, 期待有更多發現.

半餅正面:

底面:

切口處細節:

面上局部細節:

1 Text & 5 Teas

2008-03-21T22:13:00.000-07:00

The following was posted on my Sina.blog. I just received some great gifts - 1 book and 5 teas - from Sunny at Beijing! The book is a piece of classic by the Taiwanese author Mr Shi Kunmu, who is prestigious in the Chinese puerh tea world. The big cake is a sheng beeng made of the so called "purple" puerh. The smaller cake is a Xishuang Banna You-le mountain ancient tree sheng bing of 2007. The small tuo is a Xia-Guan Factory product with the famous Pine-Crane trade mark. The loose leaves in the left bowl is Gong-ting puerh, and the stuff in the right -- hmmm, I don't know how to call it in English now! It's a sort of side-product when mannually "ripening" the tea.

--- 山居最近一直沉浸在博友接連惠賜的欣喜之中! 去年Sunny寄來六種普洱茶樣品, 年前是小刀寄來的作為「黃金茶文化滿月紀念」的斗記生態大樹七餅, 然後是水流花靜惠贈的吳志強之《東泠摶砂掇英》與《大師古琴》CD, 今日喜接Sunny再寄之普洱茶禮物 -- 不日將更有舍利子兄惠賜之砂壺 -- 善哉, 山人何其幸也!! 吾惟當珍惜此諸勝緣.

現先將Sunny之所寄與各位好友分享一下. 此次Sunny所贈之物頗嘆為觀止, 共計一典五茶, 如下:

一典者, 石昆牧先生之《經典普洱名詞釋義》一書也. 實為學習普洱茶之經典(盼能更得05版《經典普洱》). 五茶者,

一. 「景谷淳一堂」出品之紫茶餅 (生餅, 年份不長)

此餅外包裝上部有篆文"八俊公"印, 兩旁有二藏文咒語, 其左為長壽佛心咒 Hum Mama Hum Ni Svaha; 其右為六字大明加觀自在心間種字 Om Mani Padme Hum Hrih -- 下印茶馬古道馬幫行圖, 及"雲南七子餅茶"、"紫茶"、"一"並"茶史顧問: 木xx"字樣 (內飛及餅樣容試茶時再報)

二. 昆明天安茶場出品「西雙版納攸樂山古樹茶」(簡體字)餅. Sunny告訴我此茶又稱"月光白", 此款為07春茶, 是(南域風情)自己收的原料壓餅包裝的. 見下圖左.

三. 下關沱茶(集團)股份有限公司出品松鶴商標100克沱茶. 年份也較近, 期久置會更好些. 見下圖右.

四. 特級宮廷普洱散熟茶. 前文已有描述. 見下圖左.

五. 老茶頭. 是90年代末產品, 已有近10年的年份. 可泡可煮. 見下圖右.

--- 連夜記錄, 特先分享喜悅. 不日試品, 當再詳述~~~

西人評茶譯介之一

2008-02-15T22:31:00.000-08:00

Tea is of East, and is of the world...

茶是東方的, 也是世界的. 近年來越來越多的西方人開始對中國茶及中國茶的品飲方式發生興趣. 他們中不乏佼佼者, 不僅努力學習中國茶文化, 而且深入茶區實地考察, 一些人甚至已介入地方茶葉貿易. 如山人知道有一位名叫Scott來自美國加州的青年人現安居雲南, 為北美一家介紹中國茶葉雜誌的自由撰稿人並有自己的小規模普洱茶及茶具經營. 這些西方愛茶人善於獨立思考, 不盲從, 重科學, 且因無任何文化包袱, 反而進步較快. 現正在西方悄然形成一股具有一定勢力的茶人社群. 和我們一樣, 在當今信息網絡時代, 這些人大都有自己的茶博客, 在上面相互交流發表自己的觀點認識, 品茶論道. 殊為可惜的是, 很多他們的博客因為是建在Google Blogger等上而被大陸官方屏蔽! 山人將不定期翻譯推介一些他們的好文章. 今天就先譯介一位名叫Bill的美國明尼蘇達州博士生在其博客《茶馬古道》(Ancient Tea Horse Road)上發表的一篇文章:

2006六大茶山出品易武"千年古樹餅茶"試品
(2006 6FTM YiWu Millennium Ancient Arbor Beeng Cha)
------ By Bill; translated by 覺香山人

【產品信息】

此產品據說是由純粹易武山區古樹春茶壓製而成. 因為原料純為易武老茶樹而標榜特殊. 還有, 葉子也據說是日曬的然後手工佈置在餅面, 因此格外美觀. 有關易武茶山請閱讀本人以前的貼子. 此處有更多有關六大茶山的信息.

【初步觀察】

除了(特別)佈置的葉子(只達表面)之外, 我注意到茶葉條索較長, 因而更令人想到秋茶而非春茶. 此外, 我也很難找到任何芽頭. 照我不成熟的意見, 如果是春茶這就不正常. 從好的方面而言, 此餅聞起來很好, 沒有煙味.

【沏泡參數】

水: 瓶裝泉水. 來源: 賓州 Frontier Springs
投茶量: 5.3克

水溫: 煮沸後置三次呼吸
沏泡方式: 功夫茶
茶器: 宜興紫砂壺150毫升

沏泡次數-時間:

1泡-15秒出湯
2泡-12秒出湯
3泡-25秒出湯
4泡-35秒出湯
5泡-45秒出湯

【第1泡】

香 -- 雖有花蜜香氣但令人失望地弱. 但沒有新普洱茶有時會有的膠皮或煙味.
味 -- 非常令人愉快, 但不夠持久. 較平淡, 缺乏收歛性. 茶韻微弱(如果有的話). 飲後感到一種不錯的類似烏龍茶的味道.

【第2泡】

香 -- 與初泡非常一致. 略帶生糖及微弱乾草味.
味 -- 我本期望第2泡會表現更為活躍, 但很不幸, 茶韻並無增加. 茶湯格外平淡並帶有微酸. 這次收敛性略增. 茶湯仍然好喝與上面所分析的一樣, 但略顯無生力.

【第3泡】

香 -- 仍無變化. 所有此款茶的優點都在變弱.
味 -- 乾草味加強, 收敛性略增. 仍無茶韻.
持續味感再次令人想到輕焙火烏龍(non-roasted oolong).

【湯底葉】

葉子顯示不像野生茶樹. 當然, 憑視覺是很難判斷, 但根據我自己的經驗, 野生樹的葉子應該更強健, 而此餅葉子較薄並且葉脈淺.

【總印象】

正如從我以上記錄中可推測, 我並不太喜歡此款茶. 此產品的確有悅人之處, 但較大程度上並非好例子. 滋味與口感均無法令人想到是易武或(任何)野生茶樹, 因為它們不活躍, 缺乏茶韻與回甘. 三泡後各泡均與前三泡相似只不過是變弱而已. 當然此餅價格相對古樹普洱而言算是便宜了, 但最令我感到失望的是此餅所聲稱的優異之處. 依我所見, 此餅如果有的話也僅係加入極少量易武古樹而已. 也許這就是為什麼廠家會在餅面上作文章, 使之成為唯一的優處. 我的期許值不高, 恐怕也是因為價格的原因令我先決地以為它不會如其所說的那麼好. 但你也不能責怪我去試品!

湖北新茗采花毛尖兩款比較

2008-02-13T08:18:00.000-08:00

This article has been first posted on 覺香山居 (my tea blog on Sina)

采花毛尖是湖北名茶中的一枝新秀. 在綠茶中雖遠不比西湖龍井、洞庭碧螺春之有名, 甚至談及湖北名茶時, 也恐怕知有恩施玉露者多, 知有采花者少. 然山不在高, 有仙則名; 茶不在名, 好味曰茗. 吾人之向物也, 與其求有名而不得其實, 不如求無名而得其精者也. 此中道理, 茗茶與砂壺皆相通.

山人一學生新婚, 去歲年終隨夫婿回湖北老家見公婆. 二人回來時特帶回一包四罐裝正品「采花毛尖-天麻劍毫」(至尊貢芽)餽贈. 生產日期為07年3月20日, 春茶. 此前山人從父母處亦得一罐類似產品「忠順采花芽毛尖」, 不知是否正品. 昨山居迎春燈迷茶會時得以試品前者, 感覺頗佳. 今日午後復得空閒, 決定將二種采花同時沏泡, 以作正式比較.

先檢乾茶, 左為忠順, 右為正品:

比對觀之, 右正品芽毫飽滿美觀, 葉色亮麗, 披毫明顯; 左條索似過細, 色澤黯淡.

同等茶量水溫, 直壁玻璃杯沖泡, 右正品見湯中有如雲霧缭繞, 細觀乃知是葉上細毫融於水中蒸騰所致, 芽頭直立, 上下浮沉; 而左杯中者, 湯色單調, 葉頭停滯不動.

一泡約一分鍾出湯, 兩款味皆淡而略澀, 但正品出明顯綠豆香氣. 此茶乾嗅無味, 然入水甚至僅入溫壺即發好綠茶之典型綠豆香. 昨日茶會時用砂壺, 溫壺後置茶壺中醒茶時, 立出綠豆乾香, 極其濃郁! 與會賓客八人傳壺賞聞一週, 回到山人手中時, 味香不減! 二泡增時至兩分半鍾出湯. 正品湯色不改, 淡綠半透明(湯中多細毫析出故), 味甘洌, 雖乘熱飲, 嚥下後卻口感清凉. 香氣怡人, 略苦澀敛, 但有變化. 而忠順品牌者, 出湯稍久色立顯黃, 湯清, 苦味單一, 集中於舌上中部. 至此兩款優劣立辨矣!

三泡後檢葉底, 右正品芽頭圓潤, 間有如雀舌狀者; 左可見芽中有開張者, 形狀不夠完整, 色深.

放翁有詩曰:
午枕初回夢蝶床紅絲小磑破旗槍
正須山石龍頭鼎一試風爐蟹眼湯
岩電已能開倦眼春雷不許殷枯腸
飯囊酒瓮紛紛是誰賞蒙山紫笋香
(效蜀人煎茶戲作長句--陸游)

四罐(50gX4)裝正品采花毛尖外包裝:

【轉載】經典普洱--口感

2008-02-12T17:07:00.000-08:00

以下轉載自經典普洱

經典普洱名詞釋義 / 石昆牧

口感

(一)

茶性
--專指茶湯入口後，口感的刺激性。包括香型與苦澀度，以強弱形容。

茶質
--專指茶湯入口後，湯質飽滿度、滑度、甜度、回甘、韵底，以及耐泡程度。以厚薄、重淡之分。

香氣
--鮮葉因殺青、揉拈、乾燥等製程產生香氣，主要由游離型兒茶素所產生。口腔對于香氣的感覺，上顎、舌面舌下、兩頰、咽喉間都可能感受到，依產區與制程差异，會有不同香氣與感應位置。尤以吞咽間之香氣，且能有層次變化是為上品。然，普洱茶應避免上顎前端有高溫烘乾之甜香味，以及任何雜味。

苦澀
--茶葉的苦多由內涵物中的茶鹼產生，澀感則由脂型兒茶素所導致。一般來說，苦澀度與茶質茶性強烈厚重與否相關。然苦化甘、澀轉甜的轉化速度，代表茶種的適用性與製作成敗。苦不化甘、澀不轉甜，則可能與茶種特性及製程不當有關。

青味（菁味）
--殺青溫度不足，鍋內溫低於攝氏180度（鍋外溫度攝氏230度以下），或是殺青時間不足所引起。

甘韻甜質
--甘與甜，是令品茶者最回味的部分。若品茶完後三至五分鐘內，仍有喉頭與兩頰的回韵甘甜，是為佳品。

層次感
--層，重重疊疊；次，先後順序。層次分二類：一是口中的香氣與甘韵的轉變，香氣如何從舌面與上顎間的轉換，甘韵如何從舌面、二頰，以及咽喉間的轉換。第二種是每一泡茶湯香氣口感的縱向轉變。層次感通常容易出現在拼配茶與優質純料茶菁。

煙燻味
--少數民族傳統製程中，揉茶後、毛茶乾燥期間陰雨或是夜間無日照時，會以炭火低溫熏乾，木炭烟熏味由此而來。

煙焦味
--普洱茶產量异于一般茶品，一種茶品動輒數千公斤，甚至數萬公斤。在鮮葉殺青過程，無論溫度是180度左右或是210度以上，因為滾筒殺青時，數量通常很大、較少整理殺青滾筒，所以很容易產生內附茶葉焦炭現象。而在風篩分級時，這些茶葉焦炭的黑色顆粒多以掉落，且國營廠時常會使用非當年度的茶菁，在經過儲存搬運過程，這些顆粒也會減少，焦炭味也會降低。最後毛茶與成品乾燥使用烘乾，因為抖動與高溫的影響，焦炭味與黑色顆粒就會消失殆盡。

【討論】

小刀: 我有几片料不错的茶，可惜有轻微的烟熏味，还值得继续存放吗？？
石: 煙燻味不一定不好只要您能接受後期陳化有時煙燻味會有關鍵性的作用

有問: 自然陰乾是通風太過嗎
石: 是.

有問: 通風過大是否容易出現油耗味?
石: 是.

有問: 何為油耗味?
石: 脂肪的氧化味道比如餅乾、豆類等食品開封後許久未食用的味道

(二)

樟香
--坊間稱香港倉儲茶品，靑壯葉生茶在ㄧ定時間的高溫高濕儲存與退倉後，茶湯所產生的特有香氣；若茶品年份較短入倉較輕則為靑樟香，若年份較老倉儲較輕稱之野樟香，若為三十年以上老茶入倉較輕則稱之淡樟香。

蘭香
--同樟香形成原因，坊間稱稍有年份、入倉較重的生茶品，茶品受溫溼度影較大，湯色相對較深、葉底色澤亦深但柔軟不黑硬。

蔘樟香
--靑壯葉熟茶置入高度濕倉環境，剛出倉時茶菁特有類似樟樹參香混合香氣。

棗香
--老葉或級外茶經過輕度渥堆、輕度濕倉處裏後，在沒有入倉或很輕的倉儲下茶菁茶湯所產生類似紅棗乾香氣，在某些特殊茶區容易出現。

龍眼味（桂圓味）
--早期八零年代至九零年代中期，青壯葉輕發酵渥堆茶品，如早期7562、7563、8592、鳳凰熟沱、臨滄熟沱等等，在沒有入倉的情況下，茶菁味道類似龍眼乾的味道。

荷香
--特級或細嫩芽熟散茶經過輕發酵渥堆、輕度溼倉處裡，茶菁所產生類似乾燥荷葉香氣。

蔘香
--基本上為茶葉木質化香氣，以陳年老熟茶居多。靑壯葉茶品經過高度溼倉，或是輕中度溼倉經過長時間退倉後，茶湯口感產生類似人蔘香氣，尤其冷湯更為接近。

【討論】

有問: 樟香就是那种樟脑球味吧？
石: 不是典型香港倉儲的味道與樟腦或樟樹一點關連也沒有只是形容詞!
石: 以我的理解倉味加水味！
小刀: 类似霉味？
石: 不應該說是霉味容易誤解

(三)

木質化
--茶葉經過高溫、高濕、不通風環境儲存，茶葉內含物質多為破壞或氧化殆盡後，茶品浸出物質，只剩高比例的水溶性纖維質，稱之「茶葉木質化」。

鎖喉
--品茶過後，咽喉間有過于乾燥、吞咽困難、緊縮發癢等不快感。普洱茶鎖喉口感主因有四，導致的鎖喉感覺各有差异。

倉儲環境問題高溫高濕亦或不通風環境都可能導致鎖喉。亦或者茶品沒有包裝與容器，放置于空氣中，快速氧化出現油耗味時，也會出現鎖喉現象。

製程高溫乾燥成品高溫乾燥，或是刻意焙火加溫也會導致鎖喉。

成品日曬乾燥成品單餅直接日曬乾燥，亦或者未完全乾燥前包裝整筒乾燥，都會引起鎖喉症狀。

不當拼配因拼配茶區所導致茶質衝突，亦會導致鎖喉感。此種狀况較為少見，只發生在新製生茶，待陳化數年後鎖喉感會消失。

收斂感
--品茶後，舌面與口腔四周出現緊綳感、高度苦澀感。此通常與製程或茶質有直接關聯，為茶鹼與脂型兒茶素大量溶出有關。此現象不代表茶質優劣。

(四)

湯氳
--「氳」音「ㄩㄣ」「yūn」，意指「天地間和合而盈盛的氣」。筆者形容茶湯上所產生如薄霧般的氣體為「湯氳」。茶湯內有一些脂溶性物質，如脂肪酸（fatty acid）、類胡蘿蔔素（caroteanoids），以及一些揮發性香氣成分，這類浸出物質比重較輕，漂浮與湯面之上。因湯面為脂溶性物質為主，若導致茶湯上下溫差大時，在湯面上就容易產生湯氳。湯氳的多寡與茶質有間接關聯，但不見得完全正面相關。

影響「湯氳」的因素：

茶湯浸出物中，脂溶性物質的多寡。

湯色越深，容易對比產生，較易被發現。

沖泡時湯水溫度越高，瞬間浸出物質較多，越容易產生。

氣溫較低、氣壓偏低時，也較容易產生。

盛湯的容器，也會稍有影響。

茶菁外型

細嫩：一心一葉之芽毫為主，條索完整細長。

緊結：ㄧ心二葉為主，條索圓緊而長。

粗壯：靑壯葉為主，芽毫較少、芽葉長而較不結實。

片葉：靑壯葉破碎後的片葉。

黃片：病老葉為主，為所謂蟾蜍皮多數來源。亦有較薄身之嫩葉揉不成條，看似黃片。

枝：葉與葉之間的茶樹枝，以細枝居多。

梗：枝與葉片之間的茶梗，因季節、品種不同，有軟、硬梗之分。

末：茶葉被壓碎的粉末。

緊壓外型

工整：餠圓、磚正、沱潤、緊美。

鬆散：因壓力不足或茶菁製作不當，導致外形空散、粗糙。

形變：因使用模具不當或經驗不足，緊壓茶品未達該有美形。

黏糊：蒸壓時間過久或是蒸壓溫度過高所導致，茶菁條索沾粘模糊、不分明。

(五)

茶菁色澤

墨綠：臺地野放優質茶常有的顏色，深綠色泛黑而均勻，陳化後轉油光黑亮。

翠綠：優質茶園茶色澤，翠玉帶油光。

青綠：常見於殺青溫度過高茶菁，青中帶綠、無光澤。

黃綠：常見于葉質較薄的臺地茶，或是因殺青溫度不高的、稍有發酵度的栽培野生茶。
灰紅：常見于新製生茶日曬乾造茶品，茶菁微紅、無光擇、有日曬油耗味。

湯色

淺綠：完全高溫製程的綠茶湯色。

碧綠：常見於高溫殺青、高溫乾燥茶品，幾乎完全沒有發酵的狀況下，呈現翠綠湯色，與綠茶類似。

黃綠：黃中帶綠，新製普洱生茶常有的正常湯色。

綠黃：綠中帶黃，其他製程正常下，可能與殺青溫度偏高，亦或乾燥溫度偏高有關。

金黃：野生茶最優質湯色的表現，清澈透亮，有如黃金色澤。

黃紅：黃中帶紅，稍有年份或是輕發酵製程新茶品，亦有可能與儲存環境溫濕度偏高有關，必須配合觀察
湯色清亮度與葉底。

紅黃：紅中帶黃，稍有年份或是輕發酵製程新茶品，亦有可能與儲存環境溫濕度偏高有關，必須配合觀察
湯色清亮度與葉底。

暗紅：紅而不清亮，新製輕發酵渥堆熟茶，或是溼倉生茶品湯色。

紅黑：紅中偏黑、不清亮，新製高發酵渥堆熟茶湯色，或是溼倉嚴重、生茶品熟化之茶品湯色。

暗黑：黑而不清亮、有漂浮物，通常因渥堆時間過長或溫度過高、茶菁碳化有關。

琥珀：有如琥珀透亮飽滿，湯常出現在乾淨有年份生茶。

酒紅：稍有年份的乾倉熟茶，或是入倉老茶，較琥珀色偏暗紅顏色透亮但較不飽滿。

凝乳（冷後渾cream down）：茶湯冷却後，出現淺褐色乳狀渾湯現象，普洱茶中進行冷發酵的優質茶品容易出現。

清亮：湯色清澈，泛飽滿油光。

昏暗：湯色不清亮，但無懸浮物，通常與新製茶水分含量比例高有關。

混濁：有懸浮物或雜質，通常與揉拈過度，或是毛茶火烤乾燥有關。

葉底

柔韌：柔軟有彈性，一般為生茶葉底特徵。

乾硬：多為紅褐色，較無彈性。一般為輕發酵熟茶與濕倉生茶之葉底特徵。

黑硬：重發酵熟茶或是嚴重入倉生茶葉底，色黑無彈性，碳化象徵。

糜爛：手指壓揉即成糜糊狀。熟茶潮水不當、生茶發酵不當、雨水茶等等都有可能發生。

(六)

白霜
--茶葉表面白色衍生物質的通稱，包含因為濕氣導致茶葉角質層白化、脫落，以及部份黴菌殘留物。

倉味
--專指茶品經過人工快速陳化倉儲，如廣東、廣西、香港特殊倉儲後，茶品吸附倉儲特有氣味所產生的綜合性味道。香港老茶倉因儲存茶品時間較長，倉儲特有陳味與茶蟲，此為辨識香港茶倉的方式之ㄧ。

醒茶
--在普洱茶有三個涵意：

入倉茶品飲之前需要置放於通風處，使之倉味減輕、口感較佳。

緊壓茶品解塊儲存于紫砂瓮中，藉以提升香氣與增加口感細膩度。

沖泡清洗茶時，順道以沸水將緊壓部份鬆散，洗茶之茶湯不喝，亦稱溫潤泡。

鬥茶
--『鬥茶』，在民間流傳已久，切確年代筆者尚無考證，只瞭解于宋朝時期即流行「鬥茶」，評比茶葉的色澤、香氣、口感。在此，僅將此法用於檢測二種茶質優劣與倉味。
--二種茶在相同客觀條件下，使用相同茶具、相同的水沖泡水、相同置茶量相同水溫、相同沖泡時間、相同泡數、相同杯子等等，二種茶交替喝，如果出現其中一泡茶的滋味出現大變化，比如滋味變淡、出現雜味、苦澀味增加．．．等等則此泡茶質相較劣於一泡茶品。

Annoucement 通告

2007-11-17T15:35:00.000-08:00

For the sake of more Chinese readers, the Master of Mt. Awakening Aroma has opened a new blog:

http://blog.sina.com.cn/mtawakeningaroma

For updates please visit the above site.

-- MMAA

中文讀者歡迎訪問山人在新浪網上的部落格:

http://blog.sina.com.cn/mtawakeningaroma

-- 覺香山人敬啟

Liquid Volume Measure Table 液體容量單位比照表

2007-10-09T17:42:00.000-07:00

(approximate)

1 teaspoon	--	1/3 tablespoon	5 ml/cc
1 tablespoon	1/2 fluid oz	3 teaspoons	15 ml/cc
2 tablespoons	1 fluid oz	1/8 cups 6 tsp	30 ml/cc
1/4 cup	2 fluid oz	4 tablespoons	59 ml/cc
1/3 cup	2 2/3 fluid oz	5 tbsp + 1tsp	79 ml/cc
1/2 cup	4 fluid oz	8 tablespoons	118 ml/cc
2/3 cup	5 1/3 fluid oz	10 tbsp + 2 tsp	158 ml/cc
3/4 cup	6 fluid oz	12 tablespoons	177 ml/cc
7/8 cup	7 fluid oz	14 tablespoons	207 ml/cc
1 cup	8 fl oz; 1/2 pint	16 tablespoons	237 ml/cc
2 cups	16 fl oz; 1 pint	32 tablespoons	473 ml/cc
1 pint	16 fluid oz	32 tablespoons	473 ml/cc
4 cups	32 fluid oz	1 quart	946 ml/cc
2 pints	32 fluid oz	1 quart	946 ml/cc
128 fl oz	1 gallon	4 quarts	3785 ml
8 pints	1 gallon	4 quarts	3785 ml
4 quarts	1 gallon	8 pints	3785 ml
1 liter	1.057 qrts	--	1000 ml

1 cc = 1 ml
cc: abbr of "cubit centimeter" (the volume of a cubed box measuring 1 cm × 1 cm × 1 cm)
ml: abbr of "millilitre" (1 liter = 1000 ml)

►小型紫砂茶壺(如水平壺)的容量在120至180cc或1/2至3/4 cup之間.
►中型紫砂壺在200至300cc或1至1.5cups之間.
►較大的紫砂壺(如供春壺)在300cc或1.5cups以上.

一暼驚鴻 Serendipity

2007-10-07T13:55:00.000-07:00

山人今日在網路上疾步而馳之時偶然遇到了一位愛茶女子的博克, 開始只是覺得名字叫的有點怪, 隨意瀏覽了幾行, 誰想如驚鴻之一瞥, 竟不能不駐足...

此女子寫的東西裡夾滿了西哲東理, 有點兒虛, 有點兒玄, 卻又很有些天然去雕飾的勝人之處... 她的博克叫: 「名理‧虛勝‧玄遠」!

她是學茶藝的學生嗎? 她練劍, 彈古琴, 泡茶. 她叫唐唐, 自稱PlatoTang, 因為她讀柏拉圖. 她有個理科出身卻喜歡哲學為了「是思想的不是政治的」理由過了知天命之年還在讀康德的父親. 她向一個叫「神仙」的老師在一處叫「神仙居」的幽美之地學茶藝. 她寫茶, 寫泡茶的經驗和心境. 她愛喝武夷岩茶. 在「也說茶」中她寫到:

「自小喝的是大红袍。业界流传一句话，天下茶喝腻了还有武夷岩茶，倘此茶喝腻了，便无茶可喝。我是什么茶也没喝过，就喝了这么多年的大红袍。但也是妙玉所谓的饮牛饮骡了。翻看近代文人写茶的文章，大抵都会用到红楼梦中的这个典故。」-- 下面就接著說

「昨日还被嘲笑，说我喜大杯牛饮。姑娘我生性豪爽，南人北相，且懒惰成性，牛饮也没什么奇怪。奇怪的倒是现在喜独处一角，茶具不离手，香不涣散，味不耽迟，手上功夫见长。以前每每有人送茶到我面前，还窃喜享福。现如今才知道，天下最好玩的事情都让他们占去了。」-- 挺有意思. 繼續看

「今人多饮可乐等饮料，有些喜品咖啡，我见之都常劝其多喝茶。怕耽误时间的也可以快饮。听说瑞典国王做过测试，最后喝茶比喝咖啡的迟了三十年才死。杨绛说，茶叶初传入英国，英国人直接将茶叶渣子拌些黄油和盐敷在面包上吃。

古代有一些诗文，红楼梦金瓶梅长物志等；近代有一些小品文，茶雅茶俗茶事；现如今确[卻]已找不出什么可读的精品了，实属遗憾。品茶文章读得不少，可总是过目就忘，现在才知道，凡涉及审美品位[味?]之类，都需事必躬亲，[否則]犹如读语录者看人坐禅，趣味殆失。」

喔! 有點兒悟性. 又翻了幾頁, 讀到她有一天收到一瓶叫Pure Poison的香水禮物後對另類之香的感悟... 掃了幾眼她喜歡的音樂CD... 原來也是全方位地按照她自己的話「任性地生活」著的... 此女竟也狡兔三窟: 一會兒在太和姑洗如來藏一會兒又虛步躡太清去了.

【覺香山人評曰】如今懂茶的女子已屬很少, 有能論茶及理, 愛好博雅, 品位超群的就更屬難得. 就算食虛玄而未化, 也已在「練精化氣」的層次. 在一片小玩小鬧白領囈語的博克叢中可算是一株奇蘭了. 台灣人說「喝茶的男人不會壞」, 大陸人和曰「喝茶的女子更可愛」. 話雖有些俗, 但所言之理不俗. 今以俗言讚此雅事!

***「凡涉及審美品味之類, 都需事必躬親, 否則猶如讀語錄者看人坐禪, 趣味殆失!」*** -- 山人記下. 嘆復匆匆...

蒙圓壺 Mon-curve

2007-10-01T17:34:00.000-07:00

友人父母贈紫砂新壺一把, 壺名「蒙圓」. 今特以之試泡武夷岩茶:

名稱: 蒙圓壺
作者: 俞其元(琦源、琦元)
材質: 清水泥

A Tea Set on Tortilla Box 創意: 玉米薄餅盒上的茶道

2007-09-24T05:34:00.000-07:00

Yes, a Mexican tortilla box is perfect to serve a Chinese traditional tea ceremony - can you believe that?!
如果沒有這張照片, 你可能不會想到一個墨西哥玉米薄餅盒可以很好地服務於中國功夫茶!

The tortilla box (tortilla warmer) comes from market like this. It costs for less than $6.00.
這就是一個剛買來的墨西哥玉米薄餅盒, 價格不到6美元.

It has only two parts: a lid and the body.
它只有兩部分: 盒蓋與盒身.

Turn the lid upside down, it serves perfectly as a tea tray!
把盒蓋翻過來, 就成了一個完美的茶盤.

Fold a maki-sushi bamboo mat into 1/3 and place it it over the case to make a "tea boat" (or "tea-sea"). Land your teapot on it and you're all set for making the tea.
盒身用來作茶船(或稱"茶海"), 將一塊捲壽司用的竹簾疊成三折架在其上, 上面放上茶壺 -- 可以開始做茶了.

When finished, the tortilla box makes a cozy home to rest your teawares.
使用後, 洗淨的茶具在盒中安歇.

► The tortilla box is made of a dense and heat-resistant plastic. It's in an earth-brown color, with a tender feeling on touch. These features make it ideal for supporting clay or ceramic teawares.
► 這種玉米薄餅盒是用密質抗熱塑料作成, 泥紅色, 手感細軟, 用來承托紫砂或瓷制茶具十分理想.

If you have handy tools, you can even drill holes on the lid so to make the entire box a real "tea-boat" like this:
如果你手邊有工具的話, 你還可以在蓋子上鑽一些孔, 這樣整個盒子就成了一個真正的"茶船":

簡易靜坐法 A Simple Sitting Meditation: The Basic

2007-09-21T18:34:00.000-07:00

靜坐是一種非常有效的調節身心的方法. 每日只需五至十分鍾, 如能堅持, 就能對身心有很大益處. 這裡提倡一種簡單的修習方法.

我們的靜坐法是從一些深奧的佛教修習法門中簡化而來, 但它對任何修習者都有益, 不論他是否有無任何信仰.

【可行性】

1. 環境 -- 初習的時候應當選擇一個安靜的地方. 有基礎之後, 任何環境中都可以. 注意保持空氣清新流通.

2. 時間 -- 隨個人的生活習惯, 可選擇早晨, 也可以是晚間, 或者工作學習之間. 其實任何有五至十分鍾自由支配的時間中都可以. 初修的時候以早晨為佳, 因為這是一天的開始, 如果能提前十幾分鍾起床, 略修靜坐, 則能使一天的生活都有意義. 晚上睡前也是很好的機會, 因為一天的事到此都要結束, 靜坐一下能舒緩一日的煩忙. 工作學習之間靜坐片刻, 能調整身心, 緩解壓力, 也是很好的休息方式. 但如果比較勞累時則容易打瞌睡, 此時便不如不做, 以免形成一靜坐就昏沈的壞習慣. 注意: 靜坐的最大敵人並非環境的嘈雜, 而是發生昏沈.

3. 人數 -- 一人自修或多人共修均可.

【修習步驟】

1. 設座 -- 雖然說有個安靜的地方就可以, 但既然是一種修習, 就應當營造一種正式的感覺, 給自己乃至其他人一個提示. 簡單地說就是鋪設一個座位或選擇一塊地點, 對自己說: 我現在要開始在此修習靜坐.

2. 定時 -- 決定本次修習的時間. 如果時間寬裕, 靜坐得宜時, 可略延長時間. 但初習時不可過長. 如果時間比較緊, 也要留出一二分鐘, 作為從靜坐結束到進行其他事宜之間的過度. 初習時要培養修習的興趣, 因此最好的量度就是結束時有下次還想修的感覺.

3. 坐姿 -- 以盤腿打坐的方式為最好, 但如果不能或不便做到, 則可以坐在椅子, 沙發, 或床沿等上. 為什麼要採取坐姿呢? 因為行走或站立時體能銷耗較大, 不易放鬆; 而躺臥則過於放鬆. 因此權衡行、立、坐、臥, 以坐姿為最佳. 但有了基礎之後, 其實行走、站立、躺臥時也都是可以修習的.

坐姿的關鍵是身體要正直, 如果是坐在椅子或沙發上, 則一定不能靠在椅背上. 椅子或沙發要盡量選擇平正的. 如果前高後低, 就必須墊高後部, 務使身體保持正直, 不前傾不後仰, 不左右歪斜. 如果是盤腿打坐, 應該在臀後部略墊高, 用座墊或折疊的毛巾都可以. 總之要使上身能不緊張, 自然無需倚靠地保持正直為準則. 這是非常關鍵的. 兩手最好相疊, 掌心向上, 右在左上, 二大指相觸, 置於兩股上, 正當臍下位置. 或者也可以雙手掌心向下平放於兩膝之上.

4. 呼吸 -- 自然呼吸. 我們能活到現在, 呼吸應該是沒有問題的. 一般來說你絕不會呼吸"錯"了! 所以大可不必過分強調呼吸方法. 我們的問題是, 在日常生活中我們很少會關注呼吸. 忘記了呼吸乃是生命的根本. 因此我們靜坐法中很重要的一部分就是關注呼吸. 這是一個關注呼吸的問題, 而不是怎樣呼吸的問題.

在安靜的環境中, 當你的心靜下來的時候, 你就能聽到自己的呼吸聲. 開始時比較粗. 你能聽到氣息出入的聲音. 漸漸地, 你會聽不到呼吸的聲音但能感到呼吸, 比如說吸氣的時候鼻孔感到寒, 呼氣的時候鼻孔感到暖. 繼續感受呼吸. 這時你的呼吸就會變得微細但深長. 在一開始的時候可以深吸一口氣, 然後緩緩地全部呼出, 盡力吐淨. 在中間如果覺得要昏沈時, 也可再次深吸一口氣, 緩緩呼淨.

5. 意念 -- 這樣關注了一段自己的呼吸之後, 可能會有一些念頭出現. 無非或人或事. 當意識到念頭出現時, 應既不追逐也不強止. 只需認知, 想: 嗯, 我剛才思維此人此事. 然後放開, 不再多想, 回到呼吸上. 也可能會聽到外界的聲音, 如鳥鳴, 人語, 腳步之聲, 車輛駛過之聲, 乃至風雨雷電等等, 都應既不追逐也不驚動, 只需認知, 想: 這是鳥鳴, 這是人語等等. 然後放開, 回到關注呼吸之上.

當身與心都調柔之後, 即可進一步作更有意義的思維觀察, 但這些則屬進階修習. 達到一份無昏沈的身心適悅, 就是簡易靜坐法的成功.

6. 結束 -- 在即定時間完成時, 可略做幾次深呼吸, 伸展按摩肢體等, 然後緩緩起座.

簡易靜坐法: 調身 A Simple Meditation: Physical Integration

2007-09-21T18:24:00.000-07:00

靜坐法的三根本即調身、調息、調心. 這三根本既是方法也是目的. 凡靜坐必依此三法次第而修, 而最終目的則在於身心合一. 調的意思包括調整、調柔、調伏. 身法重調整, 息法重調柔, 心法重調伏.

下面具體介紹一些調身的方法. 分為舒展肢體、鬆活關節、穩固坐勢三部分.

【舒展肢體】

[準備]
穿寬鬆的衣服. 準備一塊長條形薄墊(可以是練瑜伽用墊, 或三折的薄毛毯). 赤足(為防止打滑).

第一勢. 站立, 兩足自然分開略小於肩寬. 呼吸自然. 將兩臂徐徐從身體兩側舉起, 兩臂伸直, 兩手心相向, 在頭頂正上方兩手心相合(可利用二拇指交叉合住兩掌), 盡力向上伸, 兩臂伸直, 直致兩上臂內側貼住兩耳. 與此同時, 兩足根提起, 保持平衡約十秒鐘. 此時要點為身體盡量上伸, 體會身體充分伸展的緊張感. 然後緩緩放鬆, 雙手保持合掌姿勢慢慢降至心間, 同時雙足根落地. 此時周身放鬆. 片刻後, 徐徐蹲下, 兩手分開同肩寬, 放在兩足尖外前方, 以五指撐地, 同時將右腿向身體後方盡力伸出, 左腿屈, 以雙臂支撐的力量使上身向上伸展, 雙目盡力向上方看視. 呼吸自然. 然後放鬆, 慢慢將右腿收回, 恢復蹲勢, 徐徐起立. 然後重複上述步驟, 下伏時換左腿後伸. 重複三次.

第二勢. 仰臥, 屈左腿, 將左足置於右膝蓋上, 右手握住左膝左邊, 左臂向身體左方伸出, 平置地面上, 手心向上. 然後, 右手微用力, 將左膝向右方壓下, 使下半身向右扭轉, 同時上半身盡力保持不動, 左肩不可離開地面, 頭轉向左側, 目看左手, 自然呼吸, 保持數秒鐘. 這時體會腰與脊椎扭伸的感覺. 有時會聽到脊椎筋骨間發出微細脆響, 這是筋骨鬆開的表現. 然後左右交換, 即屈右腿, 置右足與左膝蓋上等等. 重複二至三次.

第三勢. 雙膝跪坐, 兩膝略分開, 兩手向後支撐於兩足上或足後方, 身體緩慢向後仰直至肩及頭部觸地. 體會膝、大腿及上身完全伸展的緊張感. 自然呼吸.

第四勢. 從前勢後仰狀態, 兩手配合用力, 將上身慢慢撐起恢復跪坐狀. 深呼吸數次. 身體慢慢向前傾, 同時將兩臂盡力前伸, 額頭觸地、胸腹緊貼於大腿上, 放鬆片刻.

[特別練習: 倒立]

接前勢, 上身抬起, 兩手相疊, 手心向內, 兩前臂在地面上圍成三角形, 將額頭放置於兩手內緣地面上, 兩手掌自然拢住頭頂, 使額頭與兩肘處在正三角形的三點之上. 這時膝蓋離地, 用腿的力量將身體後部支起, 抬高臀部, 兩腳慢慢向前移動, 將全身重量移向額頭及兩前臂, 直到重心落於額頭及兩肘形成的三角形中點為止, 緩緩將兩足舉離地面, 慢慢伸直, 完成倒立姿勢. 自然呼吸, 保持平衡, 二至三分鐘為宜. ***此為最省力的倒立法, 但難點在於掌握平衡. 初學者可在靠近牆壁處, 兩手位置距牆約一足遠, 按照上述方法倒立, 將雙足靠在牆上, 比較安全容易.

【鬆活關節】

這一段的主要目的是鬆活胯與膝關節, 以利於盤腿跏趺. 因此如果不是要修習跏趺打坐, 而是採取坐在椅子上的方式則可省略這一部分.

第一勢. 雙足散盤, 先以左足跟抵會陰處, 以左手握右足心, 右手握右膝蓋, 以右胯為支點, 兩手輔助右膝畫圈. 這時右胯好像是一個圓錐體的頂點, 右膝所畫的圓圈正好是圓錐體的底面, 而右大腿的路徑正好是圓錐體的側面. 體會胯關節的轉動和放鬆. 然後左右相換. 充分放鬆兩胯關節.

第二勢. 以右前臂及肘部支撐右膝窩, 以左手握右足踝, 以右膝為支點, 用右足畫圈, 原理同上. 左右交換, 充分放鬆膝關節.

第三勢. 將兩足心向對, 以兩手握住兩足尖, 將兩足盡力向會陰處靠攏, 保持足心相貼, 同時上身挺直, 雙手拢住兩足, 用大腿外側肌肉的力量將兩膝壓向地面, 如果能使兩膝觸地最好. 但初習時很難作到, 只需能體會到胯關節及雙腿內側筋腱的拉伸感即可.

【穩固坐勢】

以上已充分伸展鬆活肢體關節, 下面即將開始靜坐. 雙腿跏趺坐於座墊上, 或雙腿下垂坐於椅子等上. 如果是跏趺坐應用小墊子或折疊的毛巾將後股墊高約二至三寸. 這時將兩臂伸直貼近兩胯外側, 以兩手中指、食指和大指用力, 將上身撐起. 設想身體懸掛在由兩臂和肩膀形成的架子上, 完全放鬆, 頭頂上似乎有線繩向上牽引. 然後緩緩屈臂, 將身體輕輕放到坐墊上, 設想每一塊脊椎骨如同棋子逐一落置, 使上身全無緊張用力地安住在座上, 不偏不倚, 自然正直, 並且非常穩固. 這就達到了靜坐身法的要求, 可以開始休習靜坐.

***跏趺坐的優勢***

雖然說比較容易的坐在椅子等上的方式也能達到簡易靜坐法的目的, 但比較而言, 跏趺坐有更大優勢. 因為跏趺坐姿是一切坐姿中最穩固的以及最自然的形式. 它還與進一步修習氣脈和禪定等有很大關係. 即使從健身角度而言, 跏趺坐也是非常好的鍛鍊方式. 因此初習者應當循序漸進, 以能作到跏趺坐為目的.

Steeping Green Tea in a Glass Coffee Press 巧用玻璃咖啡壓壺沏綠茶

2007-09-21T18:22:00.000-07:00

Green tea is gaining popularity nowadays as a healthy beverage. How to make a cup of good green tea? How to make green tea properly so that we can fully enjoy its healthy ingredients, and at the same time having fun with it? For some high quality loose-leaf green teas, such as Dragon Well or 龍井 (Longjing), there are much more fun than only the taste of the tea. For example, have you ever watched tea leaves dancing?

To make this happen, we need a teaware that is transparent, and it must have enough space to allow the leaves to dance. An earthware or ceramic tea pot is not approperiate here, because it doesn't allow us to see what's going on inside of it. In China people like to use a tall and plain glass to steep loose leaf green tea, and we can see it makes sense for this purpose. In the West it is sometimes not easy to find such glassware that is also heat resistant. Indeed, people in the west drink more cold beverages than hot ones. Fortunately there's one thing that is both readily available and ideal for making green tea -- A Glass French Coffee Press! -- Of course, a glass tea pot can do as well, but my experience tells me that this kind of tea pots are usually expensive and function not as good either.

A glass coffee press is transparent, tall, and heat resistant. And it has a mouth that makes it easy to distribute the liquid. You can easily get a regular coffess press from the market. For the purpose of making green tea, however, we should NOT use the plunger, because if we press everything down to the button, we can't see the dancing of tea leaves which is part of the enjoyment of making green tea! So we take off the plunger and leave it aside. Then, you probably need a pitcher and a regular filter. Now I'm ready to make a good cup of green tea with this new tool!

Bring the water to a boil. Take off a proper amount of tea leaves -- the amount depends on your own taste, and put it into the coffee press glass. Remember, never pour boiling water directly onto green tea leaves -- it will damage the taste of the tea, and the tea will become bitter. The ideal temperatrue for green tea is about 80 to 90 F. You can use your own experience or a thermometer for cooking purpose to measure the water temperature. The easiest way is to first pour boiling water into the pitcher, and then transfer it into the glass.

When pouring the water, you should try to direct it towards the wall of the glass, so that the water flows in a motion that can bring the tea leaves up and down in a circle. Now, it's the time to watch the tea leaves dancing. They will descend to the button and then floating up to the cerface. Some will repeat this motion for three times! There are special names to describe the tea leaves in this fashion. The tip of sprout is called "spear" 槍 and the second and third leaves are called "banners" 旗. You see spears and banners ecountering in motion, just as they are in a battle field -- but in a peaceful manner!

When most of the tea leaves settle down in the glass. It is also about the time the tea is ready. Pour the tea on the filter resting on the pitcher. And then distribute tea from the pitcher into individual tea cups -- now you and your guest can enjoy the tea.

Classification of Tea 茶的分類

2007-09-20T23:16:00.000-07:00

Classification of Chinese tea -- Famous Chinese teas -- English tea & Chinese tea known by an English name -- Types of tea by distribution before consuming -- Japanese tea -- African Red Tea

Classification of Chinese Tea 中國茶葉的分類

CHINESE	ENGLISH	PROCESS	EXAMPLES
綠茶	Green Tea	No fermentation	龍井、碧螺春
紅茶	Black Tea	Fully fermented	祁門紅茶
烏龍茶(青茶)	Oolong Tea	Half fermented	武夷巖茶、鐵觀音
白茶	White Tea	Slightly fermented	白牡丹、銀針白毫
黃茶	Yellow Tea	Unfermented	君山銀針
黑茶	≈ Compressed Tea	Long term fermented	普洱磚茶
花茶	Flower/scented Tea	Green tea scented	茉莉花茶

From the chart above, we can see that even though the the 7 well-known teas are named after "colors" (with the exception of the last one), they are actually defined or differentiated by the processing of the tea leaves. This naming system can sometimes be quite confusing. Teas such as Qi Men or Keemun (祁門) are called Black Tea in English, even though people in the West know that its infusion color is red. In this case, the Chinese name, Hong Cha 紅茶 (literally, "red tea"), is more straight forward. But the Chinese name Hei Cha 黑茶 (literally "black tea") refers to the color of tea leaves, and is used for teas that are made of old leaves and went through a long term fermentation. In Chinese, Hei Cha usually calls up those compressed teas sold to minorities of border regions.

In the following chart, I try to compare the meaning of the colors named for teas in the two different language contexts.

綠茶	color of infusion & leaves	Green Tea	color of infusion & leaves
紅茶	color of infusion	Black Tea	color of leaves
烏龍茶	shape of leaves	Oolong Tea	transliteration of Chinese name
白茶	color of infusion & hairs on leaves	White Tea	color of infusion & hair leaves
黃茶	color of infusion & maybe also leaves	Yellow Tea	color of infusion & maybe also leaves
黑茶	color of leaves	-	-

At least one author, Lam Kam Chuen, however, in his book titled The Way of Tea: The Sublime Art of Oriental Tea Drinking (in English) presents a different naming system. In his book, he gives classification names of "Light Green Teas" and "Red Teas" with Oolong and Qi Men or Keemun as examples respectively. He also used differently the name of Black Tea, by which he refers to some ball-shaped or twisted leaves, such as the Ku Ding or Ku Ting 苦丁茶, teas that taste bitter in the first infusion and become bittersweet in later cups.

(To be continued... 未完待續)

關於覺香山居 About Mt. Awakening Aroma

2007-09-01T07:04:00.000-07:00

虛擬世界有城名「沽構」, 有持數珠、折扇、水壺者雲遊至此. 一日煮茗茶時所發香氣忽化一山曰「覺香」. 築室其中, 室以山名, 因自號「覺香山人」. 但食人間煙火, 且讀古今圖書, 旁觀東西世事, 皆不過生死中求茍安而已.

夫酒令人醉, 茶令人醒; 酒令人沉, 茶令人輕. 覺香者, 茗茶之香氣也. 世間何者較此更益? 故神農偶得而倡飲, 達摩割睑而生樹, 乃至陸羽離寺而著茶經, 供春別師而制砂壺, 皆彰顯此道也.

懸壺濟世者醫也, 麈尾清談者名士也. 余俲此二類皆不及. 唯聽得趙州禪師一句「吃茶去」若有所悟, 遂提壺腕珠, 收心猿跨意馬而來. 或自獨啜, 則明月清風, 扇爐火正旺; 或以會友, 則春茗雲箏, 起雅興方濃.

-- 凡入此山者, 即為有緣, 山人在此有禮了.

In a virtual universe there is a city called El Goog. The one holding a crystal rosary, a folding fan and a water pot once visits here. He likes the place and makes tea while abiding there. The fragrant steam of tea manifests a mountain called Awakening Aroma. He then builds a house in it which is named after the mountain. And since then he calls himself "Master of Mt. Awakening Aroma."

-- Tea picks you up but won't intoxicate you, or makes you too much addicted to it. With a rich cultural background and dietetic benefit, it can also be a lifelong hobby with lots of fun to discover. --

If you run into here by chance, you are most welcomed to join the Master of Mt. Awakening Aroma with a cup of tea, the most beneficial beverage in the world.